Glitter-embellished gowns and gilded accessories are typically the stars of haute couture season. However, this time around, it wasn’t just the intricate designs that were cause for conversation: It was the over-the-top eye makeup. The dramatic swooshes caked in kohl were seen at the Schiaparelli and CHANEL runway shows, and they have been spotted off the catwalk as well. Current it-girl Julia Fox wore an exaggerated version of the look, created by Pat McGrath, to the couture shows in Paris, and more subtle yet still head-turning eyeliner-first makeup is all over season two of Euphoria, thanks to the show’s lead makeup artist Donni Davy. The design is made to stand out, adding texture and depth to your classic smoky eye, but it can be anxiety-inducing to try to recreate on your own. Below, we break down three versions of the winged-liner trend, so you can give it a road test ASAP.
Schiaparelli’s Structured Smoky Eye
Photo: Victor Virgile and Gamma-Rapho/ Getty
Makeup artist Pat McGrath developed this bold smoky eye for the Schiaparelli runway. First, she blended the shade Xtreme from the Mothership I: Subliminal Palette into the crease of the eye and extended the pigment to the outer corner to give the eye a more elongated shape.
Then, she used the shade Substance and pressed it onto the lids and smudged it along the lower lash line. Fun fact: You don’t have to use a black shade; experiment with other colors, like deep greens and vivid blues.
Next, McGrath took an illuminating pigment and dabbed it into the corner of the eye for a mini-highlighter before coating the top and bottom lashes with a lengthening mascara.
Pro tip: For all of these looks, be sure to keep some Q-tips and micellar water on hand in case you need to clean up any mishaps!
The Julia Fox Graphic Black Eye
Photo: Marc Piasecki/ Getty
Before you go in with eyeliner, makeup artist Daniel Kolaric dabbed some concealer onto the lid to act as a primer. Then, using the Pat McGrath Labs Permagel UltraGlide Eye Pencil in Xtreme Black, he outlined the graphic shape around the eye. Next, grab a flat brush and pack a black eyeshadow onto the lid, making sure to extend the color up and out in order to fill in the graphic shape you outlined earlier. Take a small eyeshadow brush and tap the black shadow on your lower lash line to add definition.
Finally, Kolaric used a deep black liquid liner to line the lashes and define the edges of the graphic shape before adding mascara to Fox’s lashes.
CHANEL’s Smoky Double-Winged Eye
Photos: Courtesy of Chanel Beauty
At CHANEL’s Spring ‘22 Couture show, models walked down the runway with a striking double-winged liner look. Using the brand’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof Eyeliner, start at the center of your bottom lash line and extend the tail outward to your desired length. Then, place your eyeliner in the middle of your top lash line and extend the tail to meet the bottom line. Use the liner to fill in the gap between the two lines.
Remember: the lines can be as thick or as thin as you want them to be, so don’t feel like you have to do something super bold if that isn’t the look you’re going for.
Next, starting at the inner corner of your eye and using the same pencil liner, draw a line across the center of your lid, extending it so the tail swoops upward and is a little bit longer than the first wing you created. Then draw a diagonal line from the end of that tail to the top of your lash line, near the inner corner of your eye.
Eyeshadow time: Take CHANEL Les 4 Ombres Multi-Effect Quadra Eyeshadow in Modern Glamour and sweep either the black shade or the silver shade tall across your lid then finish off your look with a volumizing mascara.
Top Photo: Courtesy of CHANEL Beauty
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