The Spring/Summer 2026 Runway Trend Report

Green With Envy

From the moment we noticed Chartreuse emerge at Tibi and then later in London at Burberry, Erdem, and Simone Rocha, we knew it would be a key moment for the season. Later on the runway we saw the shade at Saint Laurent, Valentino, Balenciaga and Alaïa, solidifying it as one of the colors of the season. There’s something so fun about a pop of chartreuse for the warmer months, signalling new life without the cliché of pastels or florals, with the ability to be worked back into any neutral wardrobe as we saw on the runways this season.

Lingerie Liberation

By the time Milan Fashion Week rolled around and Dario Vitale’s super sexy debut was all over the internet, we began to think about the role of bras as tops, especially in Milan. At The Attico, literal lace bras were paired with corporate skirts and blazers, while at Prada, hyper refined, underwire and elastic-less silk versions were offered as bra/bib hybrids. Over in Paris, Hermes used leather harnesses as the support of choice, while at Givenchy, it was all about goddess-like padded bra tops paired with draped mermaid skirts. There was a sense of liberation that came from these moments, especially during a time in history when women’s rights are being systemically eroded.

In The Trenches

Trench coats for Spring are no new trend. As we swap out our heavy winter coats, something lighter and more functional becomes desirable. This season, however, amongst the surplus of full-length, classic trends, we saw silhouettes reinterpreted and abbreviated into cropped versions, namely at the Attico and Maison Margiela, which were clear favorites to witness, especially if you already have a classic trench in your wardrobe and you’re looking to adopt a slightly cooler feel to your outerwear.

True Blue

Cobalt, Yves Klein Blue, ultramarine—whatever you want to call it, rich, electric blue has been a fixture of the runway for decades now, emerging every few seasons and dominating the majority of collections that we may see in a season. Spring/Summer ‘26 was no exception. From gowns at Valentino to an eye-wateringly vibrant suit at Luar, cobalt blue was everywhere this season. Part of its appeal is that ability to work the vibrant tone back into a neutral wardrobe, much like chartreuse. Its seasonless, timeless hue qualifies it as a wardrobe staple.

Touch And Go

Tactility was a focal point of the Spring/Summer shoes this year, with endless references that celebrated volume and texture. Most memorably, Matthieu Blazy’s debut Chanel collection finale look, which featured a ball skirt covered in plumes of multicoloured feathers and fabric. Prior to that, Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta debut was filled with plasticy, fur-like silhouettes that almost looked like tinsel, while over at Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli sent jackets and skirts down the runway with appliqué florals and spikes of fabric. At Alaïa it was all about fringe skirts and great big-bird-like coats while at Stella McCartney they arrived in the form of bauble-esque mini dresses.

Drapes And Capes

We’ve taken note of the cape and poncho silhouettes resurging over the past few seasons and Spring/Summer 2026 runways affirmed that trend is timeless. This season, the cape silhouette appeared in many forms: dresses, tops and, of course, coats, with the Valentino and Dior shows featuring literal capes. At Alaïa, a brown cape coat with a high-low hem stole the show. At Balenciaga, a leather cape coat in a warm red was paired with jeans for an edgy, laid-back look, while a black leather cape top had us rethinking and reimaging our spring wardrobes. Alberta Ferretti presented two cape-inspired dresses, one poncho style and the other with a cape piece overtop. Overall, this fashion month has us thinking: do we even really need sleeves?

Details That Warm

Starting in New York, we noticed fur being used in unexpected ways. While fur and faux fur coats will always be chic and in style, designers thought of new ways of playing with fur and adding texture. A brown fur top adorned with embroidered brooches was paired with a suede skirt at the Dauphinette show, and an otherwise simple black maxi dress featured brown fur sleeves at Altuzarra. Over in Paris at shows such as Louis Vuitton, shearling trim was added to jackets and dresses alike. The overall takeaway: when it’s too warm to complete your look with a fur coat, texture can be added to your outfit in different ways.

Shaping The Silhouette

The peplum hem is officially back and better than ever, and sharp edges and geometric shapes are here to stay. Sacai’s Spring/Summer 2026 runway played with the peplum hem in all ways possible. A white boxy tee shirt was deconstructed with denim panels and complete with a ruffled, denim hem. A white sleeveless blouse was pleated and ruffled and finished with a voluminous peplum hem. Meanwhile at Dior, a reworked peacoat featured cutouts and a distinct hem.Several shows including Dior, Simone Rocha, and Tibi also embraced the pannier shape, a reference to the hoop skirt and 18th century fashion.

Nomad Land

Think loose silhouettes, earthy tones, durable, heavy-duty materials, and a free-spirited energy. This season, from New York all the way to Paris, designers and models captured this nomadic energy on their runways, an ode to the travel and ones always on the move. On McQueen’s runway, a cropped leather jacket was paired with low-rise sheer lace pants and a skinny black belt laid overtop for anything but practicality. At Isabel Marant, browns, mustards, tans, and creams owned the runways and pants with oversized cargo pockets stood out. The bohemian aesthetic being widely embraced at the moment isn’t at all surprising: freedom, both spiritually, physically, and personally, often feels at stake nowadays. Dressing freely is a way of feeling free.