What happens when boho and indie-sleaze collide? Back in 2022, indie sleaze began to creep back into the zeitgeist. Led predominantly by what Hedi Slimane was designing at Celine at the time, we began to witness the return of the skinny jean and the military jacket, to some people’s horror, and to others’ delight. The grungy, Tumblr offshoot trend of the early-to-mid 2010s was categorized by monochromatic tones and rock-inspired silhouettes. Fast forward to 2025, and we’re spotting hints of indie sleaze once again on the Spring/Summer 2026 runways, only morphed into something more current, more nomadic, more…pirate forward?
This is the idea plenty of designers put forward this season as they sent a number of looks down the runway that put a modern twist on pirate attire with a nomadic, bohemian sensibility.
Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2003 collection told a story of rebellious, washed up pirates. They wore drapey, knee-length shorts, Elizabethan doublets and ruffs, and billowy blouses. For Sean McGirr’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for McQueen in Paris this season, we saw the same Rococo military jackets, neater this time, and paired with bumster jeans and suit pants. Boots were knee high, slouchy, and featured giant, pirate-like collars straight out of the movies.
Alexander McQueen SS26
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen SS26
Alexander McQueen
Over at Ann Demeulemeester, Stefano Gallici’s S/S26 collection had a similarly bootleg feel. There were military jackets aplenty—all rendered in black and gold and white and red—that looked as if they were stolen from a 17th century navy man. They were paired with cotton white dresses that were tucked up into underwear or distressed denim and leather pants; strings of fabric hung from their necks all in a very unbuttoned way.
Isabel Marant SS26
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Balmain SS26
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Ann Demeulemeester SS26
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Then there was Isabel Marant and Balmain, which sent out collections that felt distinctly less on the nose, but on-theme nevertheless. Perhaps the pirates here weren’t captains, but deck hands, clad in loose tops and drill cotton pants, all with their own special personal effects—low-slung belts, cargo bags and beaded necklaces from stolen treasure. Over at Dior, we saw what the opposition might look like— French aristocracy and bourgeoisie perhaps? Those whose treasure had been stolen and ships invaded. Clean military capes with neck ruff and silk pussy bows were sent down Jonathan Anderson’s runway alongside conceptual tricornes by Dior milliner Stephen Jones.
Dior SS26
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Ann Demeulemeester SS26
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The general sentiment, here, is one of freedom. Of borrowing and collecting and a feeling of imperfection and what it means to build an identity from all of the roads we have travelled. For those who find boho style a little overtly feminine and indie-sleaze far too contrived for the modern moment—erhaps it’s time to get in touch with your inner pirate?
