Fall marks the start of many time-honored traditions. Pumpkin-flavored delicacies arise from their summer slumbers, it's finally cool enough to break out our renditions of Lady Di's coveted royal off-duty look, and everything is so delightfully cozy that every day feels like a live-action episode of Gilmore Girls.
But for myself and others like me, the drop in temperature also signifies the beginning of silk press season. The knotless braids and cornrows that kept us right all summer are being traded in for the coiffure excellence of a silk press.
A silk press refers to getting your hair washed, conditioned, and blow-dried before straightening or curling with heat-styling tools like flat irons, hot combs, pressing irons, or, in some cases, all of the above. Some stylists include additional steps like steam treatments or wrapping the hair with plastic wrap for a smoother finish. Regardless of specifics, the most important takeaway is that this process involves heat, and a part of the reason silk presses have earned such strong links with the cooler months is the decreased risk of sweating out your often pricey silk press.
But in an era of pilates-princess-ing and hot girl walks, there are certain situations where sweating cannot be avoided, and as I try to make working out a non-negotiable in my routine, I still find myself avoiding the gym when my hair is straight. This catch-22 seems quite the universal experience for many Black women, with many documenting their frustration with picking between their hair and working out on Twitter and TikTok.
Thankfully, many hair stylists and fitness experts have put the team on their backs and discovered some of the best ways to keep your silk press intact post-workout. So, if you, too, are tired of choosing between the gym and your hair, read on.
Tip 1: Start with a fresh canvas.
Longevity in any arena starts with a strong foundation, and silk presses are no different, says licensed hair stylist Tichelle Carmichael, who explains that a thorough cleanse and deep condition set the tone not only for the perfect silk press but the health of our hair in general. "We need to make sure your scalp is healthy before we even worry about anything else," says Carmichael, adding that getting your hair washed professionally is the best route. "You want a good shampoo from a stylist, not at home, and a trim to minimize frizzness," adds Carmichael.
For those taking the DIY route, here are some of the best clarifying and smoothing shampoos:
Tip 2: Bring in the anti-humectants.
Frizz-fighting agents have been a game changer within the silk press industry for years, and if you plan on working out while your hair is heat styled, you should get acquainted. These sprays and leave-in treatments act as a barrier between the hair and excess moisture, and a few fan faves have been taking over FYPs and salons alike.
"Right now, my go-to is the Color Wow spray that went viral on TikTok. I love it," says Carmichael, referring to the Color Wow Dream Coat Anti-Humidity Hair Treatment. This spray has been fawned over by celebrity stylists and beauty influencers alike, and there is no shortage of videos displaying the visible moisture-wicking prowess of the spray online.
Here are a few frizz-busters we love:
Tip 3: Section the hair and apply tension at the root (a.k.a. the Koala ear method).
Now, how should we style our silk presses for the gym? If you subscribe to the Pilates princess or gym baddie aesthetic, you may not like this answer, but both stylists and fitness experts agree that sectioning your hair into multiple buns and placing tension (but not too much) on the root is the best way to preserve your hair.
"Splitting your hair down the middle allows your scalp to breathe. If you are somebody who is a scalp sweater, just doing one big ponytail in the middle allows the crown of the head, which usually sweats the most, to collect moisture," says Morgan Jones, a Los Angeles-based fitness instructor who describes herself as a "straight natural," meaning, silk press season is a year-round ministry for her.
Jones, who goes by MoJo on TikTok, blew up on the app after sharing this styling method, which she calls the "Koala Ear Method," and has been doing it herself for over ten years. To achieve this style, place the hair in two or more buns, depending on your length and hair density. "These are basically jumbo bantu knots that you pin in place with bobby pins to preserve the curls," says Jones, who adds that getting curls with your silk press is easier to maintain than a bone straight press. She also warns against using hair ties to secure the buns, as this can cause denting.
Further, these buns should be tight enough to avoid moisture migration from scalp to strand but not so tight that we run the risk of breakage. "That level of tension is going to reduce the amount that your roots swell," says Jones.
Shop our favorite hair clips:
Tip 4: Sweatbands are non-negotiable.
If you couldn't tell by now, thwarting off any sign of moisture is the name of the game when preserving your silk presses during a gym sesh. This makes sweat-wicking athletic bands a must.
"Place the sweat wrap around your edges, secure it but not so tight that it dents your hair," says Carmichael. Here is where it gets crucial. Once you have finished working out, leave the headband on until your hair is completely dry, lest we run the risk of texture reversion. "Immediately after [working out], your hair is still wet, so it's just going to be a bit frizzy," says Carmichael.
"I usually leave it on for an hour after I work out. But if I'm ever in a pinch, I'll use a blow dryer to dry my hair a little quicker around the edges or wherever I'm sweating the most," says Jones, who has a
special fondness for Nicole Ari Parker's sweatbands.
Tip 5: Dry shampoo is your friend.
Probably the most life-changing revelation I've had in my 20s is that I can use dry shampoo on my hair as a Black woman, something Carmichael says more clients should know about. "Another trick that a lot of ladies don't know is when your hair starts to get oily, you know get yourself a good dry shampoo and spray it from a distance then rewrap your hair. It's like a fresh silk press," says Carmichael.
Tip 6: That's a wrap—literally.
We'd be remiss not to include one of the most important aspects of silk press maintenance—wrapping your hair at night. "Wrap the hair at night using a silk or satin scarf or bonnet to maintain the straightened style and prevent friction that can lead to frizz and breakage," says celebrity hair stylist Robin Emtage.
For the less-than-graceful sleepers out there, a silk pillowcase is a great backup option in the event your bonnet or scarf slips during the night. "A silk or satin pillowcase can minimize friction and help preserve the silk press while you sleep," says Emtage.
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