It’s hard to walk the streets of Florence and ignore the presence of those who tread before you. The cobblestone streets, the magical architecture, the great piazzas that have each borne witness to centuries of Florentines—and stylish ones at that. When visiting the city, you’ll want to heed the advice of someone with respect for its heritage. Luckily, we’ve tapped Guido Conti Caponi, COO of Loretta Caponi and grandson of legendary lady Mrs. Loretta Caponi. The latter launched her label over 50 years ago, and her embroidered linens, lace-trimmed slips, and striped tableware epitomize the Florentine way of life.
These are recommendations you don’t want to take lightly. Caponi has spent decades in the city aggregating his usual haunts and hangouts. From an ‘80s-style trattoria with a killer arista (a Tuscan pork dish) to the perfect garden-front loggia ( outdoor corridor) to nurse a glass of wine in the summer, to the best palazzo hotel, his sophisticated yet relaxed suggestions paint the picture of a trip you’ll remember for years to come. Ahead, discover every stylish recommendation on his rather extensive list. And, of course, don’t forget to visit the Loretta Caponi atelier in Via delle Belle Donne.
Photo: Courtesy of Loretta Caponi
Favorite Restaurants
Trattoria Sostanza: Historical Trattoria Sostanza has been an institution of taste in Florence since 1869. In terms of interiors, this is probably one of the most authentic osterias in the whole of Tuscany. Sometimes, I dream of their lemon and butter chicken (they serve it directly in the pan while it's still frying, and I adore that sound) as well as the artichoke pie. Delicious—the best things in the world.
Osteria delle Tre Panche: Here, you can enjoy a magnificent view over Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio. My musts are the "tortelli with pecorino di fossa,” the mozzarella in carrozza with truffle, and the beef filets. Even the simplest thing is good here.
Caffè del Cibreo: The atmosphere is half-Parisian, half-Florentine. Stationed next to a very typical food market in the center of Florence, the bistro has the delicacy and creativity of refined Italian cuisine. I tried and liked everything.
Atelier de Nerli: A romantic restaurant in the San Frediano area (once home to many artisans and still the only neighborhood teeming with craftsmen), Atelier de Nerli has a bohemian atmosphere with great attention to details. This isn’t your typical Florentine cuisine.
Trattoria Ruggero: Though this trattoria is stuck in the ‘80s, it's just great. Their famous "arista" is to die for, and their roast beef cut high is incredible.
Pasticcerie/Bakeries
Pasticceria Giorgio: It’s an institution, even if slightly outside the city center. My favorite.
Pasticceria Gualtieri: This is an excellent pastry shop (also vegan) just outside the center near Porta Romana.
Bars
La Volpe e L'Uva Wine Bar: Near the Ponte Vecchio, this spot is truly excellent for a selection of wines and crostini.
Enoteca Fuori Porta: This one is in the San Niccolò neighborhood. It's so nice to eat outside overlooking one of the ancient gates of the city with a bit of a French bistro atmosphere.
Enoteca de Pitti: Enoteca de Pitti boasts an incredible wine selection, great for a dinner or a wine tasting with a view over the Pitti Palace in Piazza Pitti.
La Terrazza at Hotel Continentale: An American bar with a terrace, Hotel Continentale’s rooftop bar has an extraordinary view over the local buildings and monuments.
Rooftop Bar at Grand Hotel Minerva: Another American bar with a terrace, Grand Hotel Minerva’s rooftop bar has probably the most beautiful views over Florence. It’s located in Piazza Santa Maria Novella.
Loggia Roof Bar: In Piazza Santo Spirito, Loggia Roof Bar is a little place in a Renaissance loggia perfect for an aperitif.
Places to Stay
Grand Hotel Minerva: Grand Hotel Minerva faces the Duomo of Florence in Piazza Santa Maria Novella. It's a family-run hotel with incredible attention to detail, art, and design, with a rooftop bar and swimming pool to die for. The dining room for breakfast is just sublime.
Casa Howard: Casa Howard is an eclectic hotel/residenza d'epoca next to Officina Profumo Santa Maria Novella. Entering this hotel is like entering a home with family memories of three generations of elegant, globetrotting women and men.
Palazzo Guadagni: With its unique Loggia, Palazzo Guadagni is an iconic landmark of the Oltrarno area, the most vibrant neighborhood of Florence. At the upper floor of a Palazzo built in 1505, this hotel has the elegant atmosphere of a noble home decorated with antique furniture, frescoed ceilings, fireplaces, and windows with incredible views over the most beautiful monuments of Florence. A must is a glass of wine or breakfast in the Loggia, the terrace that offers an idyllic view of Florence and its hills.
Photo: Courtesy of Palazzo Guadagni
Photo: Courtesy of Palazzo Guadagni
Things to Do
Go to the Uffizi, then Palazzo Pitti to visit the Galleria Palatina, before exploring Boboli Garden. From Ponte Vecchio, take a walk on the hills through Via San Leonardo, stop by Forte Belvedere to enjoy the stunning view of Florence, and then continue to walk towards Piazzale Michelangelo. Just a few steps before it, take a look up to the right to see my favorite church in Florence, San Miniato al Monte. Go inside, enjoy the incredible light in the church and, once out, the wonderful view. Lastly, go to the Piazzale Michelangelo and enjoy the sunset from there.
Visit Villa Bardini and its gardens. During the summer, take a glass of wine to the loggia and enjoy the surroundings until the open-air cinema starts, then sit and—again—enjoy.
Try to visit the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, where the ancient weaving of silk and the famous Florentine brocades are still made with the same machinery and techniques of the XVIII century. Visit Officina Profumo Santa Maria Novella and its 800 years of history. Check out Lorenzo Villoresi's atelier and museum of perfumes, both housed in an ancient palazzo in Via de Bardi, very close to Ponte Vecchio.
When shopping, visit Saskia Wittmer, a made-to-measure shoemaker who apprenticed at Stefano Bemer. Then, head to Argenteria Pampaloni in Via Porta Rossa to see their great products. Ask them to bring you to see the workshop (just outside the city center)—it's simply fantastic. Then, go see Aqua Flor in Borgo Santa Croce.