There’s a certain air of mysticism that envelopes you once you make your way to the Greek Islands. An ancient landscape practically bursting at the seams with legends and lore, its rich history and culture are only rivaled by each island’s unique, arresting beauty. There are six island groups in Greece, and while the ever-popular Cyclades are distinct for their arid landscapes and whitewashed buildings, Kefalonia (in the Ionian Islands) provides a stark contrast to the expected with its green, forested hillsides that hover over the turquoise ocean’s edge.
Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian Islands and a 1953 earthquake destroyed most of the island’s historic architecture—two facts that had me wondering if I’d regret journeying here in lieu of a visit to Instagram-famous destinations such as Milos or Antiparos. Turns out: I didn’t. In fact, this under-the-radar (and low-key!) island managed to capture my heart with its quaint tavernas, burgeoning wine scene, magical snorkeling spots, emerald-hued beaches, and a very relaxed locals vibe that is simply impossible to attain somewhere like, say, Santorini. Ahead, ideas for your own visit to this hidden gem in the sparkling Ionian Sea.
Getting Around
There is one main airport on Kefalonia (EFL)—I flew here with my fiancé on an affordable Aegean Airways flight booked via the delightfully easy-to-use travel app Omio and we rented a car from the airport. If possible, opt for a smaller car model to help when the roads narrow and the parking is limited. While it’s technically feasible to visit Kefalonia sans vehicle, I wouldn’t recommend it—this is prime road trip country. And even when the roads are winding along a steep cliff (this happens a lot), I found them to be wide enough and often protected with a guard rail, which will acquiesce even the most timid of drivers.
Where to Stay
Mythos: Half the reason I picked Kefalonia as a destination was because it came recommended by one of my favorite insiders in the industry, The Thinking Traveller. They’re a villa rental company with outposts in trendy (but never too trendy) destinations such as Puglia, Corsica, and Kefalonia. My Villa, Mythos, was perched above the sea overlooking the world famous Myrtos beach to the left and the quaint fishing village of Assos to the right. Days here are spent gazing out from the panoramic plunge pool, reading from one of the many outdoor terraces, and enjoying meals by in-house chef Nektaria Tsirikou (think: an authentic home-cooked menu of lamb, salad, fresh bread, and walnut pie with Greek ice cream). It’s the perfect home base whether you’re traveling as a couple or with friends and family.
What to Do
Kefalonia is one of those places where life slows down a bit and the art of savoring becomes more effortless. As the island is surrounded by crystal clear water and punctuated by the only national park in the Greek Islands (Ainos), it’s not difficult to understand why coming up with ‘things to do’ in Kefalonia is a breeze. Enjoy fresh cuisine, dip in the ocean, spot sea life, and take time to wander around sleepy villages and to drive down winding sand roads—it always pays off.
Find a Swimming Hole: Kefalonia is well regarded for its beautiful beaches—it’s said that the island has some of the best not just in Greece, but all of Europe. Some of these are well-known, like Myrtos, while others are smaller swimming holes you stumble upon (my favorite of the latter category was a small, pebbly bay in Assos overlooking a Venetian castle). Two other beaches to add to your itinerary include Fteri (a remote swimming hole in a cove beneath white cliffs) and Alaties (a small beach with natural salt pools and unique rock formations).
Go on a Snorkeling Trip: Hopping aboard a boat to discover the best snorkeling spots is a favorite pastime in the Greek Islands, but Kefalonia really excels in this category thanks to an abundance of clear waters, vibrant marine life, and diverse coves and bays. I ventured out on a WWII-era boat in search of sea turtles and technicolor fish, with stops at the nearby island of Ithaca (home of Odysseus in Homer’s ancient Greek epic poem, The Odyssey).
Paddle Around Melissani Cave Lake: This underground lake is at once fascinating and breathtaking. Despite being a popular tourist attraction, it’s completely worth a visit and you can get in and out rather quickly, making it an easy itinerary item to tack onto your day. The cave is 20 meters below ground and is home to stalactites that are 20,000 years old. When speleologist Giannis Petrochilos discovered it in 1951, his team found artifacts that date back to the third and fourth century B.C.E. Thanks to the 1953 earthquake mentioned earlier, the ceiling of the cave collapsed, which allows light to seep in and illuminate the turquoise blue waters. You have to go in with a guide but no reservations are necessary and it only takes around 20 minutes.
Where to Eat and Drink
As most traditional Greek cuisine goes, Kefalonia’s food is, in a word, exquisite. Seafood fans will find plenty in which to relish, but don’t miss out on the hand-kneaded meat pies (a local specialty). And to wash down your delicious plate of fresh vegetables, cheese, and a cod pie (perhaps?), the local wine variety, Robola, is beloved for its elegant, complex aromas and food-friendly palate.
Eliamos: A notable recent opening on Kefalonia is Eliamos Villas Hotel & Spa—it’s a five-star hotel on the southern shores of the island and is the first property ever to become a Relais and Chateaux in the first year of operation. The menu is as fresh and delicious as it gets: octopus with a fava bean spread, black tagliatelle with shrimp and cuttlefish ink, and a salad of marinated tomatoes and peaches confit are just a few options on the rotating seasonal menu. Enjoy all of it from their outdoor deck overlooking countless native plant species and, of course, the sparkling sea.
Tra Due: Located in the storybook village of Fiskardo, Tra Due is helmed by renowned Greek chef Lefteris Lazarou. The restaurant serves up Italian cuisine, which echoes its surroundings (Fiskardo is the only part of Kefalonia that still has Venetian architecture from their occupation between the 12th and 18th centuries). Expect standout dishes like crayfish minestrone soup and paccheri bolognese with beef mince and slow-cooked cherry tomatoes (also don’t miss the menu dedicated to focaccia bread, for obvious reasons).
Fishkardo: If you’re not in the mood for Italian but still want to sample Chef Lazarou’s iconic cuisine, head to his other outpost on Kefalonia: Fishkardo. As the name suggests, the menu is largely comprised of seafood and the restaurant is seaside, providing an all too picturesque setting to enjoy steamed monkfish, penne with cuttlefish, or even the salt-crusted fish of the day.
Sarris Winery: Need a dreamy afternoon activity? Head to one of the island’s wineries for a tasting. I stopped in at Sarris because I had tasted their orange wine earlier that week and wanted to buy a bottle to bring home. Sarris is near Avithos beach and the village of Svoronata and is owned and operated by Panos Sarris. Sarris and his team are all about sustainability and natural winemaking practices, which results in stupendous wines (some of which, like the rose, aren’t exported to the US, further justifying a trip to the island). His sister draws all of the artwork for the labels and Sarris also owns a taverna down the road on the beach, should you find yourself hungry after sampling the robot or mavrodafni.
Myrtillo: For a quick but surprisingly delicious bite, head to this brunch cafe for fresh, traditional cuisine. Their sandwiches are to die for and I had the best yogurt and Greek honey of my entire life here—you can even take it up a notch and order their cevabi plate, which is local yogurt with a piece of natural fresh honeycomb.
Ladokolla Stin Plagia: Those in search of a locals vibe should make their way to this lovely taverna with arguably one of the best sunset views on the island. Several colorful chairs and tables with gingham tablecloths are situated across an outdoor open space, accented only with bistro lights and unobstructed views of the ocean. Order the pork knuckle, souvlaki, saganaki, and orange cake.
