Being as extra as we are, naturally we’re drawn towards things bright and sparkly—the bigger and sparklier, generally, the better. But there is something to be said for more subtle pieces, especially when they’re as beautifully designed and wearable as Zoë Chicco’s designs.

If you don’t know her name, you definitely know her work—it adorns the ears, necks, and fingers of the likes of Karlie Kloss, Serena Williams, and Jennifer Lawrence. Chicco basically pioneered the whole subtle, personal jewelry movement, and 18 years after the brand’s launch, she’s still going strong out of her Los Angeles studio. And while diamonds are her favorite stones to work with, she recently launched a collaboration with Gemfields using ethically sourced precious gems, too.

We were lucky enough to get a behind-the-scenes peek at her workshop and showroom, and hear how a math teacher got her started in jewelry.