The ambiance is giving 1960s Rossignol meets all-eras Jil Sander as I sip an oat milk latte and tuck into my leek and potato Rösti on the Zermatt Kitchen patio. From my table, I can see the village’s crown jewel, the Matterhorn, backdropping the tall, fit, and chic people streaming past, bundled up in ochre beanies, seafoam green sneakers, terracotta scarves, all paired with crisp gray and black basics.
Everyone knows this alpine city charms with its red-shuttered chalets dripping with geraniums and an abundance of fondue. But with a steady parade of incoming design hotels, Michelin-starred restaurants, and third-wave coffeehouses, Zermatt is climbing to new heights in design and cuisine.
Read on to find out what to see and do here, with sleek aesthetics and fresh alpine flavor behind your every move.
Where to Stay
The Omnia
Courtesy of Stacy Suaya
The Omnia: Ascending through a hidden tunnel carved into a mountain via a glass elevator (yes, you read that right), The Omnia rises to 5,400 feet above sea level. And it’s the kingpin of home bases for exploring car-free Zermatt. This five-star steel and glass hotel was designed by the New York-based architect Ali Tayer and is run by Alexander Shaerer, the great-grandson of the founder of USM Modular furniture. Thus, you’ll spot many USM Modular pieces mixed with Mies van der Rohe chairs—Phillip Starck cedar soaking tubs in the suites are also quite luxe—while the futuristically swank indoor-outdoor swimming pool might make you feel like you’re in a Tom Ford-designed ocean liner.
Courtesy of Hotel Carina
Apart from The Omnia, Hotel Carina was created by a group of architects visiting Zermatt as part of a team-building effort. The design is an homage to a mountain guide’s digs (provided some guides can afford penthouses) and also has many unique details, such as blinds and curtains inspired by the iconic Swiss military blanket.
Another worthy check-in belongs to Schweizerhof, a hip and hygge dream renovated in 2022 by hotelier Michel Reybier (behind both the La Reserve and Mama Shelter brands) as well as designers and architects Kristian Gavoille and Valérie Garcia (peep the Kelly green and cocoa-colored wood burning stoves in the Attic Suites and sip an Armagnac in the sexy fumoir).
What to Do
Courtesy of Schloss Hotel
Soak in the Wellness: Cures for slopes-induced spaghetti legs are abundant in Zermatt. One such elixir can be found in The Omnia’s Signature Massage, employing stones collected from the top of the Matterhorn that have been polished and contain vibrational energy. Skilled therapists also utilize housemade herbal oils and Sanitatem balm, performing their pressure techniques in wood-clad rooms with subtle maritime decor.
Or, get your après-ski muscles rubbed down with everyone’s favorite medicinal plant at the first-of-its-kind-in-Switzerland Schloss Hotel, with its on-trend cannabinoid-focused treatment menu. Hemp sauna, anyone?
See the Sights: You can also stretch your legs… all the way over to Italy. As of July, it’s possible to take Matterhorn Alpine Crossing’s new cable car connecting Zermatt to less-expensive Cervinia in two hours. You don’t need to be a skier to pop over to neighbor turf for lunch, but if you are, you might consider testing its reputable powder or 160km of extensive pistes. Design studio Pininfarina dreamt up the cable cars—they’ve also designed Ferraris, including the venerable Enzo—and the “Crystal Ride Cabins” feature glass bottoms so you can scope out the glacier below you.
Or, hike over the Gordier glacier or arrange a helicopter ride up to the Space Age-style Monte Rosa Hut, a 90% self-sufficient aluminum-clad hut designed by Swiss Federal Institute of Technology students. It gleams like some monolithic Kubrickian crystal, surrounded by jaw-dropping views of glaciers and 19 mountain peaks. When I was there, I met the creative director of SSENSE, who flew up to check it out for inspiration.
Make a Souvenir or Art Piece: Coming home with something handmade is always better than coming home empty-handed, especially when you’re the artisan. Sign up for a pottery class at Zermatt Keramik, where you’ll head into the studio under the sexy Aroleid Restaurant. Under the guise of a ceramicist, you’ll transform raw clay into coveted mugs, bowls, soap dishes, or vases to stow in your suitcase. Remember to mind a three-day turnaround time, or if you have a group of five or more, you can paint pre-made pieces and have them fired overnight.
Where to Eat
I’m a plant-based Los Angeleno, and it can be challenging to stay within the limits without sacrificing flavor in Europe. Fortunately, Zermatt is both vegan and vegetarian-friendly, and home to four Michelin-starred restaurants. Even more fortuitous, the flavors from local plants and herbs alone hardly require embellishment; Zermatt is cradled within the Valais canton, known for its Rhone Valley vineyards and 300 days of sunshine a year. Sea buckthorn and juniper berry clusters grow in the hills, while apricots thrive in the orchards. Cheese, of course, is a staple here and powers a hearty appetite for raclette.
Naturally, I was a big fan of The Omnia’s restaurant concept. Chef Tony Rudolph showcases elevated mountain lodge fare in a contemporary format, starting with vegetarian entrees that are stars in their own right (guests may add fish or meat “supplements”). One memorable night, I had the Gin Basil Smash cocktail by a crackling fire in the lounge area, followed by ravioli so delicate that they must have dissolved on my tongue before revealing the flavor bomb of braised carrots, celery, parsnip, leek, and onion stuffed inside.
Zermatt Kitchen
Courtesy of Stacy Suaya
And back at Zermatt Kitchen, where I admired the local color palette and silhouettes, interiors include dried flowers, a luxe coffered ceiling, and a charming lightbox letterboard menu. Chef Marion Podola offers a six-course tasting menu each night, with dishes like beetroot carpaccio or white bean velouté and a wine menu with a penchant for biodynamic pours.
Courtesy of Brasserie Uno
Coveted reservations are also had at Brasserie Uno. This sustainability-forward restaurant was awarded the impressive Michelin Green Star (only 300 restaurants worldwide have it, including French Laundry and Chez Panisse). What’s more modern than that?