What Even Is Ingestible Skincare?
Experts weigh in on whether or not it's more effective than topical products.
We are always searching for the best way for ingredients to absorb into our skin. We buy into the latest tinctures, balms, powders, and gels that all promise the same thing: to target specific skincare concerns and deliver major results. Recently, however, there has been an influx of supplements featuring buzzy ingredients like hyaluronic acid, collagen, and vitamin C that are all typically found in topical skincare formulas. But is ingesting active ingredients more effective than applying them onto your skin via a cream or a serum? Could using both topicals and ingestibles be used as a double duty approach to your biggest skincare concerns?
To help settle the debate, we turned to the experts. Jenn Randazzo, MS, RD, CLT, is the senior director of education and healthcare at Vital Proteins and has a wealth of knowledge when it comes to describing what actually happens when we ingest supplements. The brand is a leader in the space and a strong believer in the inside-out approach to beauty. Dr. Ranella Hirsch is a board-certified dermatologist who's a renowned resource when it comes to debunking skincare myths. She is constantly exposed to the latest formulas in the industry and relies on clinical studies and research to back up her claims.
Below, Randazzo and Dr. Hirsch detail how our body absorbs ingredients when used topically and as an ingestible, whether one method is better than the other, and if they can be used together.
How Do Topical Skincare Products Work?
“The purpose of topical [products] is to take an ingredient or set of ingredients and literally deliver it to the skin,” explains Hirsch. Think of a topical skincare product as a vehicle. Different topical products are like different modes of transportation; they can all get you to the same place, but different options might be more effective depending on unique factors like the formula, your skin type, or your specific concern. For example, serums have a smaller molecular structure than most creams and moisturizers, which makes it easier for them to penetrate the skin and deliver the ingredient efficiently.
When it comes to effectiveness, there are many variables that come into play, too. For example, products made for one part of the body, like a neck cream, won’t necessarily yield the same results if you use them on a different part of your body, like your eyelids, “because the skin is fundamentally different,” Hirsch says. “Then there are issues of the skin itself. If your skin is intact and in good health, things will not penetrate as well because you have this wonderful skin barrier protecting you. I like to call your skin barrier the best bouncer ever.” However, if your skin barrier is compromised, more ingredients can penetrate the skin, increasing the efficacy of the formula.
How Do Ingestible Skincare Supplements Work?
Beauty supplements quite literally take an inside-out approach to skincare. A key difference between ingestibles and topicals is that supplements claim to make a difference on a cellular level rather than just the surface because the ingredients are absorbed into the bloodstream. As Randazzo notes, “the product that's going to give you the best results is the one that's most easily incorporated into your daily beauty routine.” So if you are more likely to pour a supplement powder into your coffee in the morning than apply a serum daily, this method might be for you.
How does this work exactly? Let’s use collagen as an example. “When we take collagen peptides in particular, they are already broken down so they are really easy to digest,” Randazzo explains. “When we consume it, the body has to do less work. Essentially within an hour or so over 90 percent of the collagen peptides are already found in the bloodstream. It is very efficient to absorb.” However, similar to topical skincare products, if you're already eating a healthy, balanced diet, supplements won't make a difference in the look and feel of your skin because you're already getting the nutrients you need from food. If you have a vitamin deficiency, supplements could be a beneficial addition to your routine, but be sure to check in with your doctor before trying anything.
Is There a Benefit to Using Both Topical Skincare Products & Supplements?
There's not enough evidence to show if one method is better than the other. More clinical studies and regulation would have to be done to make a definitive conclusion. That being said, there could be an argument for pairing them together to achieve optimal results. “We see ingestible collagen as a compliment to your current beauty and wellness routine, so there are some potential benefits of doing both,” says Randazzo.
To see a difference in your skin, the best recommendation is to stick to a consistent routine and double check with your dermatologist or physician before adding anything new into your rotation.