Ah, Palm Springs. Hollywood’s playground. A desert oasis of mid-century modern architecture where everyone is gay, retired, or both. Couched in the Coachella Valley it’s become a thoroughfare for festival goers and TikTokers alike. Due to the infamous triple-digit temperatures, it’s best to plan your trip for the winter and fall months. If you chose to go in the summer, make sure you’re always a hop and a skip away from a pool because, in the words of Madeline Kahn in Clue, “it feels like flames, flames on the side of my face.” (If you’re gay and retired you’ll enjoy that reference—if you don’t, have fun at Stagecoach, cutie!)
Whether you’re looking to get plastered for a bachelorette weekend, celebrate Pride poolside in a cabana, or indulge in a little southern California food tourism, we’ve got plenty of recommendations and travel tips for you.
Where to Stay in Palm Springs
Whether you’re in Palm Springs for a romantic getaway, splurging on a wellness weekend with the girlies, or simply aiming to cosplay Don Draper in that bizarre Mad Men episode from Season 2—there’s a hotel to fulfill all your wildest (and most relaxing) fantasies. Skip the AirBnbs and rentals, Palm Springs is all about traveling in style. From Frank Sinatra to Elvis to Bob Hope, you’re following in a long lineage of A-list travelers who made Palm Springs their go-to weekend getaway.
Ace Hotel & Swim Club: Nestled at the base of the San Jacinto mountains, the Ace Hotel offers a sun-bleached, retro-modernist ambiance that perfectly captures the platonic ideal of a Palm Springs roadside getaway. Using the architectural bones of a 1960s motel, the Ace updated the amenities and design with sleek yet cozy Western-inspired decor, all while maintaining its nostalgic flair. Between two pools, a hot tub, spa, gym, the Amigo Bar, the King’s Highway Diner, and immaculately curated programming, it’s hard to find reasons to leave the Ace grounds. Thankfully, its central location makes it easy to enjoy the rest of Palm Springs’ major attractions.
The staff is friendly and respectful, and the frills never come at the price of fussiness. With day passes available for the pool, the Ace offers a hip and lively vacation experience for weekenders and day visitors alike. As an Angeleno, I’m used to hearing about the Palm Springs establishments that cater to trad-millennial bachelorette vibes or stuffy, out-of-touch “we have a second home in Palm Springs” patrons, but you can tell the Ace keeps its finger on the pulse of the cultural zeitgeist. With merch collaborations with Everybody World, boutique kitsch products like Vacation Sunscreen, and expertly dialed-in programming of DJs and performers, snobby Angelenos need not compromise their cultural tastes during their desert getaway.
Tips: I highly recommend you visit during Palm Springs Pride in November (see the section below). The Ace is a popular destination for the LGBTQIA+ community year-round, and they go all out with an incredible lineup of DJs and entertainers for Pride weekend.
Poolside at Ace Hotel & Swim Club
Adam Moody
Korakia Pensione: Restored in 1989, the Mediterranean-style resort is housed in two lovingly restored historic villas sprawling across 1.5 lush acres only a few walkable blocks west of Downtown Palm Springs. Each guesthouse and studio is named after a place in Greece and Morocco, befitting since you truly feel like you’ve been transported halfway across the world. We love that it’s adults-only and that the staff takes a modern, hands-off approach to five-star hospitality (but don’t let this throw you off; their full-service concierge is just a text message away). Coffee is served to your liking before you wake up in a thermos outside your door, homemade breakfast is included in your stay every day, an old film plays outdoors every night, yoga and sound bath sessions are included every weekend, and bikes are available first-come-first-serve. Pro tip: If the Artist Studio is available, snag it immediately and thank us later. If you’re going with a group of friends, try to get one of their gorgeous homes that can house up to twelve people. And yes, there’s a pool—two, in fact—without gates (ah, adults-only bliss). Book now.
The Mediterranean Grounds at Korakia Pensione
Outdoor Film at Korakia Pensione
Inside the Paxos Suite at Korakia Pensione
Food in Palm Springs
Food in Palm Springs ranges from al fresco California dining to classic art deco bars to atmospheric diner fare—there’s something on the menu for everyone. Uber over to Downtown Palm Springs and mosey around the local fan favorites.
King’s Highway: Attached to the Ace Hotel, the King’s Highway Diner resides in a classically 60s former Denny’s with an authentic mid-century flair. It’s the kind of place you can really cosplay being in one of the California-based episodes of Mad Men (which is always what I’m looking for in Palm Springs). You have the option to eat inside or poolside on the patio. The menu features your typical diner fare–burgers, pancakes, eggs, etc.–alongside an extensive list of drinks. They even offer a date shake, an 80-year-old specialty of the Coachella Valley. I highly recommend the frozen cocktails for a poolside afternoon–the pina colada tastes like a Dole whip, and I had a great time racking up my room tab with these bad boys.
King’s Highway
King's Highway | Tom of Finland Foundation x The Ruby Fruit Pride (2023) menu collaboration
Workshop Kitchen & Bar: Housed in a converted historic movie theater, this open-plan, concrete space has an earthy minimalism that compliments the new-American dishes and craft cocktails. With the 1920s architecture and mountain views, this was by far my favorite dining experience in Palm Springs. (They recently opened up a second location in Los Angeles.)
Bar Cecil: Named for famed British photographer, artist, and designer (and LGBTQ icon) Cecil Beaton, the bar’s playful menu is an homage to Beaton’s artistic and colorful legacy. With its Michelin rating and decadent interior, the restaurant attracts quite the crowd so book your reservations in advance. A friend of mind once sat next to Cindy Crawford and Diane Keaton—la dee da!
The Farm: If you’re looking for a hearty, country-chic brunch on the patio or a Provençal farm-to-table dinner, the Farm is a mainstay in the Palm Springs food scene. Here, you’ll find all the classic and reliable crowd-pleasers to keep the whole group happy.
Paul Bar:The Paul Bar is tucked away in a hole-in-the-wall strip mall, but don’t let that discourage you. Yes, it’s another speakeasy-style dive bar run by a cheeky man in a bowtie, but the craft cocktails and food transcend the gimmick. A fan fave of the locals, there is always a bit of a wait but on a first-come-first-serve basis.
Rooster and the Pig: A stylish eatery with a cozy yet minimalist interior, the Rooster and the Pig offers modern riffs on classic Vietnamese dishes. They don’t take reservations so I advise getting there when they open at 5 p.m., but if you can’t, I assure you it’s worth the wait.
La Vallauris: Recently added to the SoHo House collection, this Palm Springs staple offers gourmet French fare with a prix-fixe menu. This is a high-end, romantic dining experience perfect for wooing your current sweetheart.
Birba: Birba offers al fresco modern dining with excellent homemade pizza and craft cocktails. If you’re looking for a casual dining experience in a laid-back, tree-filled patio, this is a great place to nurse a hangover or get a head start on your next one.
Chef Tanya’s Kitchen: Indulge the vegan in your friend group with a trip to Chef Tanya’s Kitchen. Offering a classic lunch/casual dinner fare of soup, salads, and sandwiches, this vegan restaurant/marketplace is a healthy respite from the typical “vacation” gut-busters.
Activities in Palm Springs
If for any reason you want to leave the cabana and venture out into town, there’s a variety of shops, day hikes, and art destinations in greater Palm Springs area to keep you entertained.
Palm Springs Pride: Unlike most Pride programming that takes place in June, Palm Springs Pride occurs on the first weekend of November. Conveniently scheduled, it avoids the triple-digit, scorching temperature of the desert summer and gives you an excuse to escape dreary transitional weather to drink and party in the sun. Palm Springs has always been a popular year-round LGBTQIA+ travel destination with a substantial drag community, so the city pulls out all the stops with events all over town.
I attended the Ace Hotel & Swim Club’s Pride this year. With a menu collaboration between the Tom of Finland Foundation and my favorite sapphic Los Angeles establishment, Ruby Fruit, special brunch items were added to the King’s Highway menu, with proceeds going directly to the foundation during “Leather Pride” weekend. The following weekend, the Ace hosted a series of pride events called “Blush!” consisting of three days of poolside parties, artist performances, panel conversations, and nightly events in the Amigo Room and patio. This year, DJ Shane Thomas curated an incredible lineup of artists, such as drag race alum Violet Chachki and multi-hyphenate musicians like Emeryld, Rush Davis, Mia Carucci, Bronze Avery, and Saturn Risin9.
Their musical performances felt spirited yet intimate in the space. With fog machines, strobes, and jaw-dropping ensembles, each performance transformed the poolside patio into a festive, clublike atmosphere with none of the typical LA club snobbery or fussiness. We even got the privilege of seeing Violet Chachki debut a new routine to the James Bond, Shirley Bassey classic “Diamonds Are Forever” in a rib-crushingly-cinched, diamond-studded corset. While panel conversations may not be the average partygoer’s first choice of event, I enjoy these Pride events’ intellectualism and sincerity. In the panel conversation preceding the performances, each artist on the lineup had incredible insights to share about what it means to be a “queer artist.” The fact that many of the performers were already friends created a kind of warmth and intimacy that embodied the true spirit of Pride.
Indian Canyon: Driving out towards the San Jacinto Mountains, there are a host of picturesque hiking trails to explore on a day trip. Between Palm Canyon, Andreas Canyon, and Murray Canyon, Palms Springs is host to the second-largest California Fan Palm oasis. If you manage to make it out to Palm Springs after the rainy season, you will witness some utterly surreal desert oasis landscapes complete with babbling brooks, riverside trails, and a cathedral of majestic palm trees.
Desert X: Every two years, the Coachella Valley is host to a site-specific contemporary art exhibition. With sculptures that live in tandem with the natural environment, the works often address themes of climate change, tourism, immigration, and Native American Culture. If your visit coincides with a Desert X exhibition, make a day of driving from artwork to artwork through the desert.
Perez Road Art & Design District in Cathedral City: Housing a string of art, design, furniture, and vintage stores, this is a great place to shop for new-modern design objects, vintage home goods, and well-priced reproductions.
Shops at Thirteen Forty-Five: Described by @jdkpop as the “Fred Segal of the desert,” visit the stunning mid-century building host to a high-end curation of resort wear. From pottery to vintage to home goods, explore top brands and some luxurious (and eccentric) finds.
MARKET MARKET: Market Market is a 40,000 square foot emporium of vintage and repurposed goods offering apparel, houseware, furniture, art and more. It’s a colorful wonderland to get lost in for the afternoon. Collect a few tchotchkes and snag some vintage Mugler, Bob Mackie, or Valentino while you’re at it.
The Webster: If you’re looking for the Rodeo Drive of Palm Springs, head to the Webster—a 4,200 square foot 1970s revival property and luxury boutique. Here you’ll find enough Celine, Saint Laurent, and Gucci to really put that credit card limit to work.