Born and raised in the City by the Bay, I may not have left my heart in San Francisco, but I certainly left my Tomagachi at Fisherman’s Wharf on a field trip in 2002. As a Los Angeles transplant, I’ve often found myself a tourist in my own hometown; family visits have forced me to rediscover the city’s charm even after the botched facelift of the tech boom. Today, tech bros are an invasive species slowly infecting our neighborhoods with tasteless decor and Tesla charging stations. The Marina is swarming with hedge fund managers in Patagonia vests getting B-12 IV drips to remedy their hangovers. Much of SF’s historic grittiness has been replaced with Neo-liberal snobbery—but don’t lose all hope! The city’s charm endures when you know where to look.
When it comes to late 19th-century architecture and sweeping storybook views, San Francisco is unparalleled. The best way to avoid the tech douchery and tourist traps is to approach the city like a local. No, you don’t have to ride a cable car, nor do you need an $18 hot fudge sundae at Ghirardelli Square. The sea lions at Pier 39 are cute, but Tripadvisor doesn’t tell you they stink to high hell. The best way to see SF is to pick a neighborhood and explore all the hidden gems it has to offer. At only 7-by-7 square miles, SF is a surprisingly good-walking city, so it’s easy to check a lot off your list in a single part of town. Below, I have outlined the neighborhoods with the most jam-packed city gems and you can mix and match to your heart’s content!
North Beach & Chinatown
When I have friends in town, this is the first area I hit. There are panoramic views of the city from Coit Tower to the Golden Gate Bridge at nearly every hilltop. The neighborhoods are so closely bordered that you can walk a block from the romantic side streets of North Beach’s Little Italy, and find yourself in the heart of historic Chinatown. Fun fact: SF’s Chinatown is the largest Chinatown outside of Asia and the oldest one in North America. Here’s what you can do in a day:
Caffe Trieste
Opening in 1956, this café was the first espresso coffee house established on the West Coast. It’s a bohemian landmark and a fixture of the neighborhood. I like to pop in for a quick espresso or, if I’m feeling frisky, an Italian soda. Heads up: It’s cash only.
Molinari’s Delicatessen
After an espresso at Trieste, pop across Columbus to the old-school Italian deli. Grab a number and wait in line for a sandwich. (Joe’s Special is my personal favorite.) While you’re waiting in line, you will be tempted to buy all manner of rare Italian pastas, cheeses, marinated vegetables, and desserts—absolutely cave in and buy as much as you’re willing to carry.
Washington Square Park & Saints Peter and Paul Church
If it’s a nice day, take your Italian sandwich up the street to Washington Square Park for a little picnic. Enjoy the picturesque view of the Saints Peter and Paul Church, where Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio took their wedding photos.
City Lights Books
Support your local independent retailers and buy a book at City Lights. Founded in 1953 by infamous beat poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, the store is a certified landmark. Make sure you don’t miss the poetry room upstairs. Grab a rocking chair in the corner and cosplay manic pixie dream girl with a copy of On the Road until you get bored.
Grant Avenue
Mosey on over to Grant Avenue in the heart of Chinatown and explore all the local shops. This is where you will find fun SF tchotchkes for your friends back home in addition to a variety of home goods, clothing, jewelry, and more. Fun tip: if you go all the way to the back of these stores there will usually be very dusty old pornographic postcards and tip-n-strip pens. These make for excellent cheeky mementos to put on your desk or fridge.
Photos: Courtesy of Andie Eisen
Delicious Dim Sum
It’s literally all in the name. Just note that this dim sum spot is exclusively carry-out, so if you’re looking for a dine-in experience, check out Dumpling Home (see the Hayes Valley section).
*Pro tip for foodies: the best Dim Sum in the city isn’t always in Chinatown because it can skew touristy. If you want excellent Dim Sum, it’s usually in a random neighborhood or just outside the city.
LiPo Cocktail Lounge
The LiPo Lounge is an 85-year-old establishment with an infamous Chinese Mai Tai—heads up, it’s very strong. At $11 you will be tempted to go in for seconds; however, we highly recommend you take a beat to make sure you don’t fall off your stool when you try to stand up.
The Mission & Castro
Perhaps the most viciously gentrified neighborhood in SF in the last 20 years, the Mission District sports a mix of long-standing authentic Mexican restaurants next to new-age boutiques and “$$” fine-dining Eater restaurants. With the historic Castro district nearby, I would recommend you stroll through on your way to the park. As much as I love the historic LGBTQ, rainbow-flagged, neighborhood, it’s more of a pit stop on the way to the Mission as far as tourist attractions (especially in terms of food).
The Castro
Hi Gay! As tacky as rainbow flags can be, this is the only place I (as a gay) think they have some charm. If you’re a tourist, unless you are going to see a sing-along double feature at the Castro Theater or you’re hitting the gay nightlife scene, its daytime attractions shouldn’t take you more than an hour. So take a stroll, snap a photo of the “Hand Job” massage parlor, and mosey on over to Dolores Park.
- Cliff’s Variety: Definitely take a pit stop in this craft/ hardware store. Buy cheeky little gifts, keychains, and maybe throw in a wig if you’re feeling whimsical.
- Hot Cookie: Penis-shaped macaroon? Go for it. The pubes are made of shaved coconut. Buy a pair of “Hot Cookie” underpants and throw in a few toffee chocolate chip cookies while you’re at it. I buy them before seeing movies at
- The Castro Theater: Beautiful theater with well-curated double features. They often have a live organ player before shows—cute!
Mission Dolores Park
Grab a couple of drinks and plant yourself in a patch of grass at Mission Dolores Park. When SF gets a rare day of 75 degrees or above, the entire city comes to this park to drink, smoke weed, and (unfortunately) slackline between the trees. There are also discreet “vendors” that walk through the park selling weed truffles, lollipops, shroom chocolates, cocktails in coconuts, and more. While legally I am not encouraging you to buy drugs from strangers in the park, me and my high school self are giving you a big winkwink.
Stonemill Matcha
Get there on the early side to avoid the line, but if you find yourself waiting, I promise it’s worth it. Treat yourself to an amazing matcha, the best katsu sandwich in California (sorry, Konbi, I still love you), and one of their delicious matcha-infused pastries to snack on at the park.Panchita’s Pupuseria Restaurant #2
Not sure why their name is #2 because they are definitely #1 in my book. One pupusa is a great snack, and two is a full meal. If you want to go fully native, venture over to 18th Street to the local-preferred and family-friendly Bolumpié, where they serve excellent pupusas while randomly doubling as the local soccer bar.
Shopping on Valencia
After fortifying yourself with snacks, take a long stroll down Valencia and prepare for some marathon shopping. From thrift stores to side-street murals to traditional retail, you will definitely get your steps in. If you want the super-size-do-your-own-hunting kind of thrift store, stop by Community Thrift. If you want the higher price tag but pre-curated selection, check out boutique thrift shop No Shop. I am also a huge fan of the perfumery Ministry of Scent—they have a very trendy and well-curated array of perfumes, so you can buy a bunch of samples without having to run around every boutique in the city. This is a great place to find something that’s NOT Santal 33. For the love of god, let’s leave that one in 2019.
La Taqueria
A James Beard award-winner touting the title of “Best Burrito in America,” this no-frills taqueria is a must if you’re in the Mission. Serving traditional SoCal rice-free burritos, it’s not a trip to SF if you don’t go to “La Taq.”
Mission Chinese
Started by celebrity chef Danny Bowien, this cult favorite is a whimsical approach to American Chinese cuisine. Don’t be fooled by the decoy exterior, your Uber driver didn’t drop you off at the wrong spot. Be sure to order the thrice-cooked bacon and rice cakes.
Bon, Nene
If you’re looking for a quiet and cozy neighborhood restaurant, Bon Nene offers Japanese small plates with a slight European flair. The mentaiko spaghetti is a must. Just trust me.
Burma Love
If you google “best Burmese food in California,” it’s all in the Bay Area. As the younger sister of SF-favorite Burma Superstar, Burma Love is a contemporary new addition to Valencia. With a combination of bar seating and intimate table tops it’s great for a group or an intimate 1:1 dinner.
Farmhouse Thai
I live in Thai Town in LA and I still go to Farmhouse Thai when I’m back home. My go-to is the Hat Yai Fried Chicken, which comes with yellow curry and blue rice. The cocktail menu is way too much fun—I choose the “Under The Sea” cocktail because it’s neon blue with glitter and topped off with a rubber duck.
Trickdog
Right around the corner from Farmhouse Thai, this is a fun place to end the night with friends. The menu of specialty cocktails is so quirky it’s kind of an eye-roll at times, but the ambiance is intimate and the drinks are delicious (quirks aside).
Golden Gate Park to Lower Haight
Golden Gate Park stretches all the way from Haight Ashbury (referred to as the “panhandle” of the park) all the way to the Pacific Ocean. If you spend a day crisscrossing through the park, there are several adjoining neighborhoods to explore. Whether you prefer a day in nature, museums, shopping, or simply eating your way through the city, here are a few highlights you can mix and match for an ideal day in the city.
Arsicault Bakery
Forget the wimpy hotel croissants. Arsicault was named best bakery in America by Bon Appetit in 2016 and remains just as popular and delicious. While the croissants are a must, everything else on their curated menu is also delicious. There’s no seating, but Breck’s next door has great coffee and turns a blind eye to those with telltale Arsicault bags. Breck’s also serves an assortment of wines and spirits, so definitely make a pit stop for some hard kombucha to take to the park, which is a brisk 15-minute walk away.
Golden Gate Park
Depending on what piques your interest, there is a lot to explore on foot in the park. There are also several “slow” streets that invite you to take a bicycle or bust out a pair of roller skates, if that’s more your speed. Depending on your energy level and budget, here are a few options to explore for your park day:
- DeYoung Art Museum: From modern art to their historic permanent collections, the De Young has plenty to offer. Go ahead and buy a ticket if you’re excited about the current exhibition, but you can also take a free trip up to the tower for a panoramic view of the city. It is also free to roam around the grounds and sculpture garden. There is a Ferris Wheel and Orchestra Bandshell in the gardens outside that are endlessly Instagramable. If you’re traveling with kids or just want to brush up on some 6th-grade science, head over to the California Academy of Sciences. The four-story glass dome simulating a lush, tropical rainforest is honestly cool as hell (no matter what age you are) and filled with exotic birds and butterflies. The earthquake simulator will give you some solid SF-themed nightmares for the next couple of nights.
- Botanical Garden: For $11-13 you can spend an afternoon in the Botanical Gardens. This is not to be confused with the Conservatory of Flowers, which is a short 12-minute walk away. The conservatory is a beautiful, white, glass greenhouse in a meadow of flowers that is best seen in the spring; however, the well-tended lawns make it a popular picnic spot year-round that oddly attracts almost exclusively Classical street musicians.
- Japanese Tea Garden: The Botanical Garden has a gorgeous Japanese Moon Viewing Garden, but if you want to expedite your garden experience with less meandering, definitely go with the Japanese Tea Garden. It’s also around $10 so maybe pick one so you’re not too gardened out by the end of the day. There is a cafe with great tea and snacks if you’re feeling peckish.
- Free Gardens: Want to see plants and trees for free? Go to the Shakespeare Garden to the side of the Academy of Sciences or to the Rose Garden behind the deYoung. Walk through the AIDS Memorial Grove for a moving and reflective experience. If you’re looking for light-hearted family fun, take a walk around Stow Lake to watch the ducks and turtles, take in the Chinese Pavilion or, if you’re up for it, rent a row boat or a paddle boat.
Photos: Courtesy of Andie Eisen
Shopping on Haight Street
Don’t get turned off by the tie-dye and hippie-oddity shops; this area is far more than a retro tourist trap. Haight-Ashbury has the best thrifting destinations in the city, so if you’re in SF to shop, don’t miss it. Aside from the “do your own digging” spots like Goodwill and Buffalo Exchange, there are well-curated—albeit pricier—options like Wasteland, Indigo, and Decades of Fashion. If you’re a music lover, don’t miss the iconic Amoeba Records. Still in the original 1997 location, they have upwards of 100,000 CDs and vinyl records, both new and used.
Photo: Courtesy of Andie Eisen
Hayes Valley
A longish walk or 5-minute Uber from the heart of Haight street is a little neighborhood called Hayes Valley. Once a rundown area under an overpass, Hayes Valley got a new life after the fall of the freeway in the 1989 earthquake. Now skewing towards the bougier side, this neighborhood has a lot to choose from in terms of food, bars, and shopping.
- German Food: If you’re privileged enough to visit SF on a day with nice weather, definitely stop by Biergarten across the park for a foamy pint, pretzel, and pickled deviled eggs. If you want a more hefty German meal, stop by Suppenküche for a schnitzel.
- Dumpling Home: Don’t leave SF without getting good dumplings. I could write a lengthy list of dumpling places in the city, but for the sake of brevity, definitely check out this Michelin-approved spot and don’t skip the pan-fried soup dumpling.
Sweet Treats: The candy store Miette is a renowned San Francisco establishment so stop by for a bag of gummy candies or a little cake. If you’re walking past Souvla (either in the Mission or in Hayes Valley) definitely stop by for the Greek Yogurt fro-yo with olive oil and flaky sea salt topping.
The San Francisco Bay
You can’t go to the City by the Bay without seeing…the bay. While I think 90% of the food and activities around the piers are tourist traps, there are a few places I’d recommend for a day-trip visit to the water.
Ferry Building
Between the weekly farmer’s market and the in-door dining options around the Embarcadero, the Ferry Building is a food destination for tourists and locals alike. I am a sucker for samples and between the farmer’s honey, olive oil vendors, and cheese mongers there is plenty to explore.
Photos: Courtesy of Andie Eisen
Walks Along the Marina Green
As an alternative to the Ferry Building, you can start out with the Fort Mason farmer’s market and grab snacks to take to the grassy area nearby for what I can best describe as the Upper East Side version of Dolores Park. Meander along the Marina Green and take in the early-1900s Army structures, the docked boats, and venture over to the Wave Organ. The wave organ is a water-activated sculpture on a jetty in the bay. Built in 1986 of PVC pipes, granite, and stone from a demolished cemetery, the sculpture creates music from the natural environment. It sounds best at high tide. In the neighboring historic Presidio district, take a walk along Crissy Field to watch rich San Franciscans and their golden retrievers in their natural habitat. My personal favorite walk along the Marina is from Crissy Field to Fort Point (a U.S. National Park Service Historic Site). I argue this is a better way to see the Golden Gate Bridge than walking across it with all the cars. You’ll also get a pretty good view of Alcatraz Island throughout your walk if you don’t have time for a guided tour of a prison. When you get to the end of the path at Fort Point you may recognize the setting from the scene in Vertigo where Kim Novak jumps into the water. It’s not a trip to San Francisco unless you visit at least one iconic Hitchcock location.
Photo: Courtesy of Andie Eisen
Bonus Travel Tips From a Local
Before you leave the Airbnb for your day in the city, here are a few things to keep in mind for San Francisco travel:
- Yes, this is a visit to California, but SF is between 55-65 degrees all year round. Don’t be the chump that only packed shorts and t-shirts. The city is full of microclimates, so bring a lot of extra layers. Also, if you’re from Chicago and currently thinking, “You call that cold!”—just shut up. Wear your shorts, I just don’t want to hear about it.
- Traffic has gotten almost unbearable after the tech boom, so I highly recommend using public transportation (Muni or Bart) to avoid all the above-ground traffic whenever possible.
- You may call it “SF” or “San Francisco.” Please don’t say “San Fran” or god forbid, “Frisco.”