Though my skin is pretty even-tempered, every few months it throws a tantrum. What does it mean when your face decides to work against you? Zits so large, you could charge them rent, dark spots that won’t budge, and massive pores. I do have to admit, my skin’s reign of terror is slightly my fault. Whenever I get my skin to a pretty good place, I start to rest on my laurels and stop being so diligent with my routine. That’s when the turn happens. While it’s never a good time for stressed-out skin, my skin’s latest temper tantrum happened at the same time as Sofie Pavitt’s first product launch.
If you aren’t tapped into the skincare world, Sofie Pavitt is a Welsh-born, NYC-based facialist who is known for working on acneaic- and hyperpigmentation-prone skin. Her signature facial has a month's-long waitlist but don’t stress—for those who aren’t lucky enough to be touched by Pavitt IRL, her mandelic acid serum is the next best thing. Given her esthetician background, Pavitt has basically seen it all when it comes to skin and she’s able to cut through the noise of the industry by offering an expert-perspective rooted in science and results.
The Formula
Mandelic acid is the star of the formula—it’s an alpha hydroxy acid that helps “resurface skin and improve the appearance of discoloration as well as fine lines and rough texture,” says board-certified Dr. Geeta Yadav. Mandelic acid is a little different from other AHAs, adds Dr. Yadav. It has a larger molecule size so “it’s able to penetrate the skin more slowly and go a bit deeper than ingredients like glycolic acid,” explains Dr. Yadav. This slow build means mandelic acid is less aggressive than other acids, making it a great option for sensitive skin. Also inside the serum? Hyaluronic acid, an ingredient that draws water into the skin to hydrate, plump, and improve skin elasticity.
My Skincare Routine
My skincare routine has been pretty simple lately so incorporating the serum into my routine wasn’t an issue. After cleansing and toning my skin, I applied three pumps of the mandelic acid before layering on moisturizer. For my evening routine, I stuck to a niacinamide serum for two reasons. 1) Niacinamide plays typically pretty gentle and plays well with other ingredients and 2) I had been using this serum for a while now. You don’t want to introduce your skin to too many new active ingredients at once—it could cause a reaction and no one wants to deal with that.
AM Skincare Routine
PM Skincare Routine
My Review
Day one of testing out the serum.
Photos: Ama Kwarteng
Three weeks later. (FYI: Both sets of my progress photos were taken at the same time of day and in front of the same window.)
Photos: Ama Kwarteng
The serum’s impact happened slowly, then all at once. One day, after a few weeks of applying the serum consistently every morning, I did a double take in my bathroom mirror. My face looked plump, soft, and healthy. My skin looked freakishly smoother and my sebum production finally calmed the f down. The serum gently exfoliated off the uppermost layer of my dermis to uncover the fresh, glowing baby skin that was lurking underneath. Plus, it did this without frying my face or triggering a bad reaction. The serum’s texture is super lightweight and a bit drippy but it absorbs quickly and wears well underneath other skincare products and makeup. If you’re struggling with dark spots or congestion, I’d definitely recommend working this serum into your routine. It’s safe to say that I’ve pretty much fallen in love with mandelic acid—I’m pretty sure that no other ingredient has had such a lasting effect on my skin’s tone and texture.