Ten hours after I got engaged, my impromptu celebration drinks came to an end. My friends went back to their New York apartments and my fiancé fell asleep the minute we got back to ours—but, I didn’t. I laid by the window looking at the endless facets and hypnotizing sparkle illuminating from my hand. It wasn’t just the romance emanating from the three-stone radiant cut diamond engagement ring on my finger—I was genuinely lost in the inner-depths of my center stone. Years later, we set my husband’s bubbie’s heirloom pear-shaped diamond next to that mesmerizing engagement stone in a rose gold toi et moi setting, turning a multigenerational love story into a diamond ring that broke the classic “rules” of the early 21st century.
That’s when I realized I will always be drawn to the individuality and unreplicated detail present in every diamond ring. By nature, diamonds are inherently unique. Layer in the myriad of settings, designs, and stone choices, and every ring you see will say something about the wearer’s personal style. I couldn’t think of anything more Coveteur than that.
When it comes to diamond engagement rings in 2023, there are no rules. But, that might make the options overwhelming. So, we tapped diamond expert and industry leader Kristina Buckley Kayel, the Managing Director and CMO of Natural Diamond Council, on the cut of the year, the fifth C to consider, and more.
About the 4 C’s
Diamonds are majestic. So, while buyers tend to focus on diamond cut, clarity, color, and carat weight, Kayel notes that “Natural diamonds are formed over billions of years and due to their natural formation, each one is unique. While there are many natural diamond options, you should look to find the diamond that speaks to you. Forget the technical criteria, there may be a natural diamond that has an inclusion, a certain hue, or some other allure that draws you in. That’s why, beyond the 4 C’s, there’s the fifth C to consider, which is character. It’s the connection and charm of a diamond and how it resonates with you.”
While the best love stories will never come down to diamond size, as consumers, we’ve been taught to focus on carat weight. In doing so, many of us end up disillusioned by a diamond’s paperwork in lieu of its appearance, but that’s all relative to your hand. Kayel explains ,“There's a tendency to focus on carat size, but diamond finger coverage is arguably a more important consideration. A creative setting can optimize your finger real estate. Bigger isn’t better. A stone that is sized for your finger can be more refined—original, but still unique. This is also the essence of the resurgence of timeless quiet luxury.”
The 4 C’s also impact budget and accessibility, which is why the fifth C should likely have even more importance to young consumers. The reality is, diamonds are expensive. Aren’t they? We asked the expert on the topic and tallied up the cost of our last vacation. She shared, “There’s an overwhelming notion that comes with the cost or investment of an engagement ring. But there’s such a range with natural diamond options that start at accessible price points.You can buy a beautiful natural diamond engagement ring that you’ll own for the rest of your life that would be the cost equivalent of a flight to Europe.”
On the “Must Have” Diamond Cut of 2023
Kayel notes her appreciation for the intricate facets in almost every diamond shape but argues that in 2023, “there’s an emerging trend towards the ‘moval,’ which is cut between oval & marquise. They look amazing set north-south or east-west.”
She agrees that shopping an antique diamond is great for those who covet a vintage style. “Where else can you find something old and make it new again? The biggest comebacks are the rose, European, and old mined cuts. They offer so much history and romance. They were invented before electricity, so they have chunkier facets that were meant to sparkle under candlelight.”
On the Biggest Emerging Trend of the Moment
“There are no rules anymore. There are so many designers who are breaking the conventions of bridal jewelry and the younger consumer wants originality and personalization.” Kristina brought the conversation back to what we stand for at Coveteur: personal style. At Coveteur, we believe that the right ring setting can turn a popular engagement ring into one that feels uniquely yours.
Luckily, she also confirmed that the trend of the moment is anything other than transient. “The ‘trend’ is the license to explore infinite options and create the engagement ring that reflects your own story, style, and individual relationship.”
On settings, she notes “Consider unique pairings, like setting an inherited diamond or an estate diamond with an existing stone. Any cut can get an edge of modernity in a modern setting, like the akimbo setting, which sets a diamond slightly askew. An akimbo setting also supports finger coverage.” Further, on color, she gave us even more to consider, “Also, natural diamonds have so many different characters. Nude diamonds, recently popularized by Lorraine Schwartz, fluorescent diamonds, salt & pepper diamonds, and grey diamonds present a myriad of different options.”
For those who gravitate towards more classic designs, she suggests a number of other ways to personalize a ring. “Some people might say a classic solitaire engagement ring is boring, but it’s not. You can set it on a unique band, or add a halo. Unconventional eternity band pairings, like those from Suzanne Kalan, also offer a number of ways to personalize a look.”
On Web3 and Innovation in the Diamond Industry
We also asked about the impact web3 and innovative tech will have on the diamond industry as a whole. She notes, “It has been an extraordinary time for the diamond industry, with demand still way above pre-pandemic levels, reflecting a consumer’s desire for products that hold both financial and sentimental value, as well as personal expression and style. Alongside this boom is consumers moving towards anti-disposable instead of fast fashion. They want to know where things come from and their impact on people and the planet.”
“Web3 gives certain customers incredible confidence and assurance. It will bring to life a whole other level of transparency around how highly regulated the industry is. The diamond industry has undergone an amazing transformation over the past 20+ years. Ethical sourcing, for example, is a huge priority for the industry. We still have a long way to go, but with 85+ countries involved in the Kimberly Project, we can focus on the sourcing and journey of each diamond from source to finger through this platform. Sarine, DeBeers Tracr, & Lucara Clara are leading the technological revolution in the space, tracking the provenance, authentication, and transformation of a rough diamond to its final polished form.”
Kristina’s Favorite Engagement Rings of the Moment
“The experience of buying an engagement ring has evolved. Emerging designers, especially from the BIPOC community, are now in the spotlight. At the Natural Diamond Council, we have a program with Lorraine Schwartz called the Emerging Designer Initiative. It’s hard to break into such a multi-generational industry. So, we focus on breaking down those barriers for entry. It’s not only about financial support and opening the doors, it’s about mentorship across the entire process. Bernard James is three years into the program and he has a maxi flower engagement ring that looks like a sunburst. Made by Malyia is doing very new things. These designers all have fresh perspectives and challenge the norms of how bridal jewelry should be designed. Others like Jessica McCormack, Jenna Blake, and Reza, are all changing the game, too.”
And a word of caution, “The FTC mandates that jewelers provide a descriptor for their diamonds. The word ‘diamond’ on its own implies a natural diamond. Laboratory diamonds must be disclosed as such. While laboratory grown diamonds (LGDs) are a cheaper alternative, it is important to note that most are mass produced in China and India, so the price continues to plummet and there is no resale value. Also, be cautious with the eco and sustainability claims as most are not backed with substantiated data or credentials. The way most LGDs are created (replicating the heat and pressure of volcanic activity) requires a tremendous amount of energy, sourced mostly from fossil fuels, let alone mined materials for the reactors within which they are created. There are also minimal social and local community benefits. What is most important when making an investment in such a milestone purchase, which can be overwhelming, is to be confident in that investment.”
Here are a few of her favorite natural diamond engagement rings.
Ovals and “Movals” from Serpetine Jewels
Akimbo Setting from Jessica McCormack
Akimbo Setting from Jade Trau
Antique Cut fromAshley Zhang Jewelry
Salt & Pepper from Greenwich St. Jewelers
Hearts on Fire Vela Collection from Hearts on Fire
Shop The Engagement Rings We Love:
From vintage-inspired toi et moi ring settings to established jewelers’ round diamond solitaire prong-set classics, here are a few more rings on our radar. We included a few exceptional one-of-a-kind modern revamps, too.
