There comes a point for all of us during the colder months where we have exhausted our winter party dress options and thusly begin to dread evening outfit planning. Layering becomes a punish, and most of the time we just want something simple and elegant to throw on and go. At least, I do. Enter: the black evening coat. A warm, functional, and one-stop-shop to the perfect evening look, no underneath outfit necessary.
I own four black floor-length coats, all in varying cuts but all in similar material (wool suiting) and all to act as evening coats for the night-time events that require a little extra warmth, for the months where leaving the house without a coat is impossible but a blazer or down coat is simply not formal enough to have any desire to leave on once arriving at your destination. But these coats aren't only useful as layers over gowns, they can also simply function as the main event. No dress? No problem! Button up your evening coat, throw on a pair of tights, and you're good to go for the night.
Saint Laurent SS26
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Balenciaga FW25
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This styling technique is no new concept, but on the Fall/Winter 2025 runways and beyond earlier this year, plenty of designers employed the trick in their shows, offering up sumptuous black evening coats with a nothing underneath approach for maximum impact. At Balenciaga's Fall 2025 show (Demna's last RTW collection for the house), a model walked the runway wearing a classic black wool overcoat, accessorized with a simple pendant necklace, sheer black tights, and black pumps. Elsewhere, different textures are worked in to create more dimension in the simple dressing strategy. At Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2026 show this October, Anthony Vacarello sent a series of nylon trench coats down the runway. The most evening-adjacent was, of course, a shiny black trench, paired with heavy cross costume earrings, patent stiletto pumps, and dark sunglasses for maximum-impact.
Khaite FW25
Khaite
Toteme FW25
Toteme
Over in New York last Fall/Winter 2025 season, both Khaite and Toteme experimented with the silhouette, too, with Khaite's Cate Holstein sending a black buttoned leather biker trench coat down the runway as the closing look. At Toteme, a black cape coat was paired with a heeled sock boot revealing very little.
There is something both polished and sexy about the singular evening coat look. Both elegant in its execution and leaving something to the imagination with the allusion of nothing underneath save for a pair of tall boots or tights. Naturally, in order to not look like you stepped out by accident, accessories are your best friend. Think: hosiery, heels, a potential belt, and some statement jewellery to tie it all together.
McQueen FW25
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