When it came to finding inspiration for fall 2017, Dior’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, knew just where to look: a quote, from Christian Dior himself. “Among all the colors, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black, it has all the same qualities,” the top of the show’s notes read, crediting the designer’s book, The Little Dictionary of Fashion. It was, perhaps, the most important hint for what was to come, as blue designs—from different washes of denim to structured navy coats—popped up on the runway. Clearly, this color was key.

For fans of those sheer, lingerie-like dresses (*cough* Bella Hadid and Nina Dobrev *cough*), there were similar sequined and embellished options, and Parisian influence was present with the help of leather berets styled over soft curls. But those pieces weren’t enough of a statement for the fashion house. Perhaps the crossbody bags—which were worn with their straps in front, resembling armor—will do the trick, convincing everyone that this season, femininity and that don’t-mess-with-me, power woman vibe made a pretty, perfect match.

Click through to see our favorite looks from Dior’s fall collection.