Stunning Images from One of the Most Celebrated Collections from Paris Fashion Week

Jacquemus’ beach-inspired spring collection was a unanimous hit.

By: Samantha Tse
Photography: Molly SJ Lowe

Jacquemus kicked off Paris Fashion Week with a fun, breezy show at the Musée Picasso titled “La Bombe” in honor of his late mother, Valerie, who was the inspiration for the collection.

The brand is named after her, and elements of her style always find their way into each collection. This season, the Jacquemus aesthetic shifted from sculpted tailoring to looser silhouettes based on his mother’s beachy glamour. The designer drew from childhood memories of evening walks on the beach, when they would walk around the port in the South of France, where he’s from.

Models walked down the runway wearing mismatched ceramic earrings, mules with geometric heels, sarongs tied nonchalantly around their hips, and wide headbands. They were glowing as they walked to an upbeat soundtrack that included Gloria Estefan’s Conga in teeny mini-dresses, midi-slip dresses with one strap sliding off the shoulder, and various iterations of the ruched white shirt dress. There was a casual sensuality about the opaque lurex slip dresses, black pants cropped above the ankle, and beautifully draped tops that were twisted and tied. Swimwear, a staple at the beach, was reimagined as dresses with voluminous skirts reminiscent of sarongs.

The Jacquemus spring/summer 2018 took place at the Musée Picasso.

“At the beginning of the collection, I’d seen a photo of my mother wearing a headband and different earrings, looking very Spanish and like an island girl,” the designer said of this season’s inspiration.

“My mother was so beautiful,” he said about his late mother, Valerie, who passed away almost 10 years ago. “She had an energy—something special between childlike and very sexy.”

“And every collection, I know I’m repeating myself, but she’s the inspiration. The brand, Jacquemus, was my mother’s name, so it will always be linked to her.”

“I really wanted to talk about the French island girls—the French Caribbean—but a more modern look,” the designer said of his references this season.

“The heels are less square. It’s more of a contrast, but I still like a lot of volume in those heels.”

“There are two different earrings because one came from my mother’s furniture. I stole a lot of things in her house, and I took the thing on the curtain and I put them here,” he said of his references.

“This collection was just a simple idea—like when you go out on the harbor and you want to be beautiful.”

“You just want to be beautiful and light, and I asked the (models) to have that kind of spirit when they walked.”

“There’s a lot of draping. Everyone knows me for being very constricted, so I wanted to use light fabrics but constricted.”

The designer Simon Porte Jacquemus.

“It’s full of beads and wood,” the designer said of the overlay. “It’s, for me, another adaptation of the ’60s and ’70s.”

“It’s something from my childhood with my mother in Corsica. She inspires me so much—the way she walked, the way she was. It’s really about French island girls for me this season.”

“She wouldn’t wear everything, but she’d be very proud,” Simon Porte Jacquemus said of his late mother.

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