Welcome to The Weekender, Coveteur’s travel series where seasoned globetrotters share their insider guides to top destinations across the world. Read on for the best spots to eat, stay, and enjoy.
Originally established as a summer holiday town before it became a winter sports destination, visiting luxurious St. Moritz is more affordable and unbelievably stunning before the skiers take up residence. Summertime brings beautiful weather and boundless opportunities for hiking, sailing on the lake, and soaking up the 320 days of sunshine the town gets every year.
From Zurich, it's about a three-hour train ride to St. Moritz, traversing sensational scenery and quaint towns through valleys and along mountainsides. The Rhaetian Railway transalpine route even got UNESCO World Heritage status and, as you catch glimpses of the impressive engineering of the track when the train snakes, it is easy to see why. Along the way, enjoy views of forests and lakes; keep your eye out as you cross the Landwasser viaduct, supported by five stone pillars.
Where to Stay
Badrutts Palace
Photo: Courtesy of Michelle Stansbury
From the moment you’re picked up at the train station in a 1966 Rolls-Royce, you’ll find yourself transported back in time with the enchanting history of Badrutts Palace. Opened in 1896, the iconic hotel matches the captivating natural scenery with opulent art and furnishings and hints of a fairy tale castle. The glamorous clientele has included such notables as Audrey Hepburn, Alfred Hitchcock, Charlie Chaplin, Rita Hayworth, John Lennon, and George Clooney. While all the rooms at Badrutt’s Palace are unique, the Tower Penthouse is an exceptionally distinct choice—a three-story, four-bedroom suite with incredible views.
Even those that aren't staying in one of the hotel's 155 rooms and suites will avail themselves of the restaurants, cigar lounge, and wine cave. Badrutt’s wine cellar is stocked with more than 30,000 bottles, including rare vintages such as a Lafite Rothschild from 1900. Or, see why their Grand Hall is considered the “living room of St. Moritz,” taking a seat and playing a guessing game of name-that-celebrity.
What To Do
Enjoy Lake St. Moritz
Photo: Courtesy of Michelle Stansbury
The walking loop around Lake St. Moritz takes just over an hour, making it the perfect late afternoon stroll before the sun begins to sink behind the mountains. If the 360-degree views have you inspired to get out onto the lake, you can do standup paddleboarding in the mornings before the wind picks up. Later in the day, sailing or canoeing is a great way to enjoy being on the water.
Relax at the Spa
Photos: Courtesy of Michelle Stansbury
The relaxing Badrutts Spa offers incredible treatments like an Alpine Cleanse along with all the amenities you could wish for, including steam, sauna, and ice rooms. The glass-enclosed indoor pool leads out to the outdoor “champagne” pool with light bubbles.
Tour an Alpine Cheese Dairy
Photos: Courtesy of Michelle Stansbury
Showcasing traditional alpine cheese making, the Morteratsch dairy in the village of Pontresina, a ten-minute drive from St Moritz, demonstrates cheese made in a giant copper cauldron over an open fire. Surrounding the charming cheese shop is idyllic natural beauty and nearby is the Morteratsch Glacier. After watching the warmed milk cut into curds, hear about the cheese-making process during the heating and stirring process before the cheese is pressed into cheese clothes and round molds. Your appetite whetted, sit down in the sunshine and sample a cheese platter of Heutaler cheese, glacier Mutschli, and more, with a new understanding of the work and artistry that goes into the plate.
Where to Eat & Drink
Paradiso Mountain Club and Restaurant
Photos: Courtesy of Michelle Stansbury
Reward yourself after an hour-long hike up the mountain (or, take a shuttle up the mountain and walk back down) with lunch at Paradiso Mountain Club and Restaurant. Spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and valleys compliment the outstanding food. For a decadent treat, try the Summer Truffle Croque Fondue, a baked porchetta croque-monsieur with Paradiso fondue cheese and black summer truffle. Save room for dessert, sampling house-made ice cream from a vintage “Gelateria Palace” trolley in the alpine sunshine.
Pizzeria Heuboden
Photos: Courtesy of Michelle Stansbury
Chesa Veglia, a farmhouse that dates back to 1658, houses Pizzeria Heuboden, a casual restaurant delivering impeccable Napoli food. In the hayloft of the farmhouse, the restaurant surrounds a stone pizza oven where you can watch the talented chefs make pies. Reflecting how luxe the rustic restaurant really is, the signature dish is the Dama Bianca, a pizza covered with Perigord truffles over buffalo mozzarella and parmesan cheese.
Le Restaurant
The simply named Le Restaurant has an anything-but-simple Champagne brunch where you could sit and people watch – if you weren’t too busy eyeing the buffet. In addition to the lavish buffet of pastries, fruits, and cold dishes, you can also order eggs and sweet dishes like crepes from the menu. While the freshly squeezed juice is exceptional, don’t mix it into your morning Champagne – the tuxedoed waiters bring out top-quality bubbles for the brunch.
