Five minutes into The Hills season one, episode one, Lauren Conrad and Heidi Montag discuss Conrad’s impending internship interview with Teen Vogue—more importantly, how Conrad will “do her hair.” Both girls’ bangs are straightened to the side with comic enthusiasm, rogue strands defying gravity itself. Soon after, upon receiving a call her interview has been pushed forward, Conrad runs to the bathroom and emerges with a whole new ‘do’: the ‘pouf.’
In the late 2000s, the hairstyles of most reality stars were pretty indistinguishable from those of teens' hair around the world. In general, it was a sartorial time to remember (and today, to parody): American Apparel lamé leggings’ ubiquity, unnecessary layers reigning supreme, and the en masse realization that any outfit worth wearing was worth sharing on a new college-born social network. The era was “indie sleaze”—named for an unprecedented takeover of ‘indie’ music artists and rebellion against corporate culture—grungy, grimy, and, most memorably, a bad, bad time for hair.
“I remember no one ever wanting to get a haircut—myself included,” says Los Angeles-based hairstylist Brooke Cheever, who grew up in the San Fernando Valley. “Once you got even a trim, the ends would look too blunt and you would lose the unkempt look.”
As anticipated, indie sleaze was unironically resurrected this year—a darker, defiant alternative to more muted trends like ‘quiet luxury.’ While influencers inferred its return with ripped tights and shredded boleros, ‘it’ girl fashion brands eschewed innuendo altogether with campaigns titled ‘Sleazenation.’ Gold jewelry went out, digital cameras (and back-flash photography) came back in, and once-reviled waterline eyeliner was now rubbed upon application. Finally, beaconed by the siren call of sleaze, shudder-inducing hair styles of the mid-aughts returned. Namely: side-bangs.
“On the runway, we are seeing a lot more side bangs now,” says Eugene Toye, a stylist at the Oscar Blandi Salon within New York City’s Plaza Hotel. “Looking dated depends on the stylist that you choose; they should know the trends and work in a progressively fashion-forward environment.”
Though Gen Z has collectively bemoaned the side part as ‘cheugy,’ the style has held on with a vice-like grip—reemerging in the form of Suki Waterhouse’s swept curtain bangs or the long, layered bob of Hari Neff. Cheever, who frequently parts her bangs to the side, has also noticed an uptick in requests for the look, though warns it may not be for everyone.
“If you attempt to do too much of a side part and you have dramatically more hair on one side, then this may not be the best look for you,” she says. “If you find your hair side-parts pretty easily, then chances are this is a look you can embrace.”
Santa Barbara-based hair stylist, Christin Brown, credits the trend for the “crazy comeback” of messy mullets (although, the reference seems to still be more teen Scarlett Johannson than scene culture). For Brown, who started her hair career in 2008, the era is still top of mind. Back then, specifically, she noticed an en masse bridesmaid rebellion against updos.
“Bridesmaids wanted an ‘undone’ look, so messy waves definitely started to become a top request… I guess it's pretty on par that these lazy [styles] have also reemerged.”
Perhaps the most surprising style to enjoy a homecoming is the ‘pouf’ (or ‘quiff,’ if you grew up in a Commonwealth country). The style, once frequently favored by fashionistas like Kim Kardashian and the Olsens, was also slated for a comeback as far back as 2021, ‘popping’ up across runways and red carpets over the past few months. Model-influencers Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Matilda Djerf, and Gabbriette have all worn the style with just a touch less volume.
“The modern form [of these styles] just has a bit less structure and a bit more edge,” says Coco Santiago, a Bumble and Bumble salon stylist based professionally in Manhattan. She personally heralds the rise of the ‘bixie’ cut (a bob-pixie amalgam à la Taylor Hill) as a well-executed homage to early ‘sleaze’ culture that also makes a statement “outside of the gender binary.” In the meantime, she’s a big proponent of side bangs.
“A soft side bang always works for all ages, so rather than avoiding it, I lean into it,” she says.
“I, for one, love to embrace a lived-in sleazy look but with a modern twist,” echoes Cheever. “Keep the hair healthy and get minor trims every eight weeks and ask your stylist to use a razor for feathered ends or to point cut,” she advises. “That way you can embrace the uncut look while still maintaining healthy hair.”
For anyone who adopted one of the many TikTok-fueled micro-trends that called for layers (read: wolf cuts or curtain bangs), it should be a natural transition into sleazier styles. Though, keep in mind, it may be a long road back.
“Be wary of falling for haircut trends that require you to take a lot of weight out of your hair,” says Cheever. “I fell hard for the mullet and growing that out took years.”
Judging by our respective obsessions with the Hailey Bieber bob, Taylor Hill’s ‘bixie,’ and Matilda Djerf’s butterfly cut, the unspoken mandate to subscribe to one length, cut or ‘part’ no longer exists. Your pouf doesn’t need to be higher than hers to be closer to god, nor do bangs need to be flat-ironed to breaking point to embody ‘rawr XD.’ At long last, we’re doing away with beauty binaries, and while there’s always room for experimentation, ultimately, it’s hair today and gone tomorrow.
“Old school hairdressers will tell you things like, ‘Well, if your face is too square, you can’t wear bangs,” Toye recounts. “I say rock it. Be confident, and if you don’t like it, then its hair, it’ll grow back.”
Just, please, use a heat protectant this time around.
Products recommended to achieve your sleaziest style yet
Brooke Cheever: "Try Milbon Texture Spray to add some messy grit to the hair and Kenra Taffy to piece out the ends."
Eugene Toye: "äz Craft Luxury Haircare’s Amplify Texture Spray and Compose Matte Texturizer: twist or braid the hair, apply the spray before bed, then in the morning run fingers through hair to reveal a soft, natural wave."
Christin Brown: "Frizz Fighting Volumizing Foam from DevaCurl for adding texture, volume, and movement."
Coco Santiago: "Blow dry some Bumble and bumble Sumotech for a slicked back look or Bb.Grooming Creme for a soft clean finish, then Bb.Thickening Dryspun Texture Spray for a little of that second day glam look."
