For years I have been getting gel manicures once a month with the understanding that my cuticles just “suck”. No matter how many creams and oils I layer on post-manicure, a hangnail (or four) will always emerge within a week of my new nails. Russian Manicures are hardly a new concept in the nail world, but thanks to a meteoric rise spurred on by TikTok in the past few years, their popularity has significantly risen for those who like a pristine nail bed.
For many who struggle with dry cuticles and painful hangnails, Russian Manicures have been described by many as “life changing” from their meticulous and detail-oriented approach that leaves nails in much better shape than how they arrived. The process is certainly more time-consuming than your regular soak off gel manicure, but many can vouch that the time investment is worth it for the result, especially if it means they are going to last longer than a traditional gel manicure.
Below, we deep dive into the world of Russian Manicures, and give you a play-by-play of my first, and why I fear it will not be my last.
What is a Russian Manicure?
The Russian Manicure, otherwise known as a dry manicure or an electric file manicure, is best identified by nail technicians using an electric drill bit to file down the cuticles and shape the nails without water. This results in a more precise, “cleaner” finish, with little to no cuticle left in sight.
For someone with unruly cuticles, this technique is right up my alley, so I decided to stop entrusting my nails with any nail tech who took a walk in, and instead booked in advance with Niso of Niso NailsNY
My Russian Manicure experience
Niso came recommended as the best by our network of beauty editors and celebrities, and I soon found out why. Over the course of 90 minutes, Niso worked on my nails in the most meticulous manner. First, she cleaned my cuticles using an electric drill, carefully clipping and filing my cuticles and nail beds for the perfect shape (no nicks or cuts in sight). Once she had completed this step, she moved onto applying a coat of hard gel (otherwise known as builder gel) to my nails, after immediately picking out the perfect natural barely-there sheer baby pink tone. Niso’s application was as precise and detail-oriented as her attention to my cuticles. After curing the gel and shaping my nails, finally, she went in with the perfect natural milky white French tip, followed up with an Augustinus Bader hand massage.
The result was the best manicure I've ever had. My nails were pristine, and have lasted well over the timeframe regular gel manicures generally stay intact for, without chipping, breakage, or grown-out cuticles. Russian manicures are supposed to last 3-4 weeks, with minimal damage to the tails upon removal, as there is no acetone involved in the removal process. For upkeep, Most of the previous gel polish and top coat is filed down with a nail drill, and a small amount of the previous builder gel is left remaining to prevent any damage to the nail. .While there is the occasional controversy surrounding the Russian Manicure technique—warning that cuticles protect the nail beds and not to push them back or cut them—the key is to enlist a professional and reputable nail technician to trust with your nails. Trust me, the results are well worth it.
