Globally, all eyes were on New York last week as designers invited guests (both IRL and digitally) to discover their Spring/Summer 2022 collections. After a long 18 months of not-so-normal fashion weeks, it's safe to say that rejuvenated creativity and a celebration of hard work was warmly welcomed back to the city—and undeniably well-deserved at that.
Legacy designers as well as fresh faces on the scene (like Peter Do and Maisie Wilen) showcased their collections, citing inspirations that ranged from punk music to their safe havens during quarantine. The runways were studded with bouts of tulle and bubble hems, high-shine materials like sequins and fabrics reminiscent of liquid metal, as well as knits and classic suiting reconstructed through an unconventional lens. All in all, there's plenty to look forward to when deciding what to "add to cart" next season.
In the meantime, while we dream of warmer days to come in the new year, we can still take a nod from the inspiration we saw on the runways this September and apply it now as we revamp our fall wardrobes. The best part? These trends are easy to translate for any time of year and you can already find them at retail.
Let's Rave
Across the board, it seems as though many designers had one thing on the mind: it's time to party. According to runway heavy-hitter Tom Ford, he's taking the celebration from night to day, donning suiting separates as well as party-ready pieces in high-shine fabrics and haute hues. Other NYFW regulars like Brandon Maxwell, Prabal Gurung, and Adam Lippes leaned into mojito green, electric purple, tangerine orange, and punchy pink. Plus, Miista, the coveted accessories label who's recently launched ready-to-wear, cited EDM culture as a prime source of inspiration for the season. If you're ready to start the party ahead of the season, try bringing the night scene to day with a glitter-woven sweater from Ganni or bold red jumpsuit from Norma Kamali that can easily go from day-to-night—or vice versa.
She's a Punk Princess
Switching up our genre references here, there was a clear pretty-meets-punk feeling going on at NYFW that showed up in the garments themselves, the styling cues, and the soundtracks. Frilly frocks were accompanied by darker layering pieces and details like black-grounded florals and lace at Cinq à Sept and Sandy Liang, while Maisie Wilen brought a bit of sex appeal to feminine pieces for a not-so-sweet approach. This fall, channel the look with chunky boots and dresses that combine juxtaposed elements of "light" and dark.
Anything But Basic
While we're certainly ready to dress up once again, we're not willing to give up the comfortable and minimalist wardrobes we mastered over quarantine. This contrasting notion in dressing birthed a new category of clothing: subversive basics. On the runways, we saw this show up through remixed knits at Eckhaus Latta, closet staples with upgraded details like creative cutouts and layered styling cues at Jonathan Simkhai and Bevza, as well as classic outerwear that's ready to make a statement at KHAITE. To get a headstart on this trend, opt for fall must-haves like a sweater dress from Jonathan Simkhai who's already included this notion into his current collection or a redone blazer from Jacquemus.
The Retro Redux
Referencing the '60s and '70s is undoubtedly still a favorite for the fashion set—and with the cultural parallels, it certainly makes sense. During NYFW, flowing silk gowns that felt very Studio 54 as well as flared pants and jumpsuits were seen on the runways of L'AGENCE and Cynthia Rowley while others, like Coach 1941 for example, leaned into mod minis. Plus, there was a "free-spirited" feeling that channeled the forward-thinking movements of the era at Alice + Olivia and Rodarte. This season, dresses of the decades and platform boots are your best bet for achieving the look that can easily be worn for an evening out or styled casually for daytime.
Architectural Accessories
Simplicity is out the window when it comes to accessories at the moment; not that these are over-the-top by any means, but there's a carefully intricate approach to details. In terms of handbags, we're seeing buzzy "puffed" handbags swapped for structured, geometric shapes that were seen at Tory Burch and Christiain Siriano. When it comes to jewelry, this is being played out through thoughtful shapes that feel like they might as well be sculptures; catch the look in the earrings at Adeam, Altuzarra, and Proenza Schouler, for example. If you're looking to integrate this look ahead of season, check out Staud and Coperni who have a hold on this emerging trend.
Photo: Getty
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