Milan Fashion Week brings with it some of the season’s most anticipated fashion shows. There’s Prada (always) and Bottega Veneta, where fashion patrons have fallen in love with Matthieu Blazy’s work. Gucci is always a hot ticket, but this season, Sabato de Sarno’s debut had attendees (and those constantly refreshing Vogue Runway) in a frenzied state of anticipation. Needless to say, we had lots of newness to consume.
This season, the clothes were wearable yet vivacious, subtle yet intriguing. My personal favorite collections came from the houses of Fendi, Prada, and Bottega Veneta. But across all variations of designers, certain continuities emerged. Trends ranged from frolicking fringe to corporate-inspired vests. Ahead, we’ve deconstructed the seven biggest trends of the multi-faceted week.
Fringe With Benefits
Photo: Courtesy of Diesel
Diesel
Fringe gave this season’s Spring ‘24 runways life and movement with its sartorial vivacity (and buoyancy). At Bottega Veneta, we saw this in the form of both frayed leather and knitwear. Prada showed us long, stringy metallic fringe, whereas at Tom Ford, similarly stringy tendrils hung in scalloped patterns on sleek ‘70s dresses.
She’s A Lady
Photo: Courtesy of Bally's
Bally's
Milanese women have a knack for femininity. Their ensembles feel ladylike yet in a surprisingly modern fashion—we’re obsessed. Kim Jones’ debut for Fendi womenswear embraced many feminine tropes (knee-length skirts, short gloves, even sweater sets) in a manner that makes you want to put on your lipstick and kitten heels immediately. Tod’s, Ferragamo, and Versace all experimented with similar ideas, which they then translated into their individual brand’s ethos.
Froth
Photo: Courtesy of GCDS
GCDS
Transparency is ubiquitous these days, but this season, designers opted for frothy, gauzy variations of these see-through fabrics. Prada exhibited a fascinating take with swaths of silk organza that fluttered behind models as they walked. Missoni then debuted a white dress that looked almost like elegant milk froth.
Power Shoulders
Photo: Courtesy of Andreadamo
Andreadamo
In an ode to the ‘80s, brands like Jil Sander and Gucci embraced oversized shoulders in the form of bomber jackets and tailoring. Prada did so in the form of supersized utility jackets, while Bottega Veneta selected pin-striped blazers in exaggerated shapes.
Playsuits
Photo: Courtesy of Jil Sander
Jil Sander
You don’t always expect to see a romper in the luxury sphere, but Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Max Mara showed us elevated takes on the casual staple. Max Mara showed short versions of coveralls, Prada showed what looked almost like a tailored blazer and shorts, belted at the waist. Bottega Veneta showed a slinky little black tank with micro shorts.
Party Embellishments
Photo: Courtesy of Etro
Etro
Yes, the Italians know how to don a ladylike silhouette, but they also understand partywear. This Spring ‘24 season, designers blew embellishments out of proportion, as seen in a black and white dress from the runway of Ferragamo. Blumarine embraced sequined-butterfly-embellished sets, while Diesel embraced glitter-dusted cosmological prints.
Corporate Vests
Photo: Courtesy of Jil Sander
Jil Sander
Vests have been around for a few seasons now, but come Spring, you can expect to see longer, looser versions cut in sharp, tailored silhouettes. At Jil Sander, they came embellished with supersized grommets. At Bottega Veneta, they stretched nearly to the floor. And finally, at Fendi, the vests were rendered in neutral shades and clashed with bright hues.