On any early evening in Milan, locals flock to buzzy bars and restaurants as aperitivo begins. A little after 7 p.m. on a recent Thursday in November, the scene was in full swing at Casa Brera, a Luxury Collection Hotel—a sumptuous retreat set inside a 1950s rationalist building in the charming Brera district. At the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, Etereo, designer-clad Milanesi spilled onto the terrace for cocktails and risotto, framed by picture-perfect views of the Duomo and Brera’s winding, cobblestoned streets lined with trattorias, antique shops, and art galleries.
Inside, it was clear this wasn’t a typical aperitivo hour—thanks to the long white table at the center of the room, its red-swirled marble glowing under moody lighting. Atop it sat a head-turning arrangement: a tower of eggs, a lemon branch, and a handful of mysterious elements laid out like a still-life puzzle. “It’s deconstructed panettone!” one guest announced to a clueless friend.
Enter food artist Laila Gohar—plus, the waiter-wheeled carts stacked with rows of sage-green mini panettone—and suddenly everything clicked for those who hadn’t read the invite. The evening marked the debut of her limited-edition riff on Milan’s beloved holiday staple, crafted exclusively for Casa Brera and served all season long at Etereo. Known for her food installations that blend the beautiful and the bizarre—think shrimp pyramids, butter sculptures shaped like hands and ears, and a 16-foot cake—and for co-founding the surrealist tableware brand Gohar World, Gohar was doing what she does best: bringing people together around edible spectacle.
The Luxury Collection
The fête was pure Gohar magic—playful, transportive, and rooted in the kind of delicious, highly-Instagrammable storytelling The Luxury Collection keeps tapping her for as its first Epicurean Global Explorer. And with the holidays approaching—and visions of her panettone still dancing in our heads—Coveteur caught up with the artist once dubbed “the Björk of food” by Drake to talk dinner-party tips, the Gohar World gift she’s obsessed, and her PSA on what not to bring to a dinner party.
Congrats on your partnership with Casa Brera! Can you describe your perfect panettone?
Laila Gohar: "Panettone is such an Italian classic that I decided if we were going to touch it, we knew we needed to do something a little special. Aside from the design of the cake itself, I wanted to highlight in a sculptural way all the different ingredients that go into panettone as part of the presentation. In my work, I really enjoy using everyday foods, like eggs or flour, and reimagining them in striking ways. It's what I’ve done here with everything on the table."
You’ve brought your dinners and installations all over the world. What’s one place that has really shaped the way you think about how people come together around food?
LG: "I grew up in Egypt, where sitting around a table and eating together is incredibly important culturally. I’ve always carried this into the work that I do. Sharing food is a universal experience."
It's almost holiday hosting season What matters most to you when you’re hosting a dinner party at your home?
LG: " Being a present and welcoming host is much more important than how impressive the food you are cooking is. I’d rather people leave feeling that they got to see me and spend time with me, as opposed to trying to serve them a Michelin-star meal."
Do you have any house rules for guests, like a shoes-off policy or keeping the kitchen off-limits while you cook?
LG: "We live in New York, so for sure, shoes off. It’s just gross, sorry. I don’t get stressed out in the kitchen, though, so I’m happy for people to come and chat to me when I’m cooking. We also live in a loft, so it would be impossible to avoid the kitchen. It’s the heart of our home."
The Luxury Collection
The Luxury Collection
What role does music play when you’re hosting? Are you a fan of Christmas music?
LG: "I’m not really a fan of Christmas music. I have a playlist on Spotify that I like to put on. But overall, anything that sets the mood and isn’t too invasive. I also don’t like music while eating. After dinner, the volume goes up. This is a hot take, but I think restaurants shouldn’t play music during dinner service."
What’s your go-to drink to serve this time of year?
LG: "Champagne over cocktails, any day. Lallier Blanc de Blancs is a favorite."
When you’re setting the table, what details matter most?
LG:" I’m happy to mix and match if needed. I’m also always up for bringing out the good china, rather than keeping it in the cupboard to never be used. Flowers are a great addition, but it’s good to experiment. No need to spend hundreds on the 'perfect' bouquet."
What’s the best party outfit in your closet right now?
LG: "Any dress with a Gohar World hostess apron over the top. Silver or gold are festive options."
What’s one thing that can ruin the mood at a dinner party?
LG: "A bad attitude."
Guests often bring something even when you tell them not to. What are you always happy to receive?
LG: "Bring a bottle. If it’s not drunk on the night, it’ll be appreciated at a later date. But make it drinkable—no bodega bottles."
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What’s one of the most memorable or wildest pieces you’ve created recently?
LG: "It’s not necessarily the wildest thing, but recently I constructed a pavilion made of rock sugar, titled Navat Uy, which I did as part of the Bukhara Biennial. Uzbekistan was a new place for me to visit, and I really enjoyed it."
What are you currently obsessed with from Gohar World, especially for holiday gifting?
LG: "'I'm obsessed with our metallic oven gloves in gold. I mean, can you imagine pulling a turkey out of the oven in these? Fab."
If the world were ending, what would your last meal be?
LG: "Shrimps. I think shrimps are my favorite food if I had to pick."
