Four cities, hundreds of collections, and tens of thousands of looks later, fashion month has come to a fittingly fashionable close. Thanks to the scale of those stats, you can find any hemline, silhouette, or colorway replicated at least three times. So if everything’s a trend, is anything really a trend? That said, some themes surfaced in astounding magnitude. A general feeling of simplicity arose to counter its post-pandemic peacocking predecessor. References to the ‘80s, ‘90s, and 2000s dominated and designers riffed on workwear in various manners. (Move over, Valentino Pink. 'Tis the season of Ferragamo red.) Below, we’ve curated the moods you can anticipate this Fall—or apply to your style of dress right now.
1. Hardware
(L-R): Vacquera; Khaite, Priscavera; Off-White; Lanvin; Louis Vuitton; Balmain;
Photos: BFA Natalia Ivanova; Hannah Tveite; Gregoire Avenel; Courtesy of Off-White; Courtesy of Lanvin; Courtesy of Balmain
Designers from Pieter Mulier at Alaïa to Catherine Holstein of Khaite have outfitted feminine silhouettes with visually heavy hardware in the form of studs, grommets, and more. In doing so, they've added a rough edge to the girliest of ensembles.
2. Seeing Scarlet
(L-R): Prada; Sella McCartney; Marni; Chanel; Tory Burch;
Photos: Courtesy of Prada; Courtesy of Stella McCartney; Courtesy of Marni; Courtesy of Chanel; Courtesy of Tory Burch
Thanks to Maximillian Davis of Ferragamo, fire-engine red is quite literally everywhere this season—in the collections, blanketing the sets, and even decorating the ensembles of guests. For Fall '23, brands ranging from Prada to Stella McCartney to Chanel embraced the scarlet hue.
3. Biker Chic(k)
(L-R): Heron Preston; Acne Studios; Isabel Marant; Courrèges; Coach; Jil Sander;
Photos: Courtesy of Heron Preston; Courtesy of Acne Studios; Courtesy of Isabel Marant; Courtesy of Courrèges; Courtesy of Coach; Jil Sander
This season’s collections underscored the value of a great biker jacket. Some did so in a straightforward manner like Jil Sander and Acne Studios. Others, like Courrèges, riffed on the classic silhouette in imaginative ways.
4. Ultra Luxe Minimalism
(L-R): Proenza Schouler, Bally; Givenchy; Stella McCartney; Hermès.
Photos: Courtesy of Proenza Schouler; Courtesy of Bally; Courtesy of Givenchy; Courtesy of Stella McCartney; Filippo Fior
Some call it "Rich Bitch" style, others simply call them clothes. No matter the moniker, it seems designers are embracing ultra-luxe but simple separates. It’s an if-you-know-you-know approach to luxury, courtesy of the cult-favorite designs of The Row.
5. Corporate Tropes
Photos (L-R): Hermès; GCDS; Marni; Loewe; Balenciaga;
Photos: Filippo Fior; Courtesy of GCDS; Courtesy of Marni; Courtesy of Loewe; Courtesy of Balenciaga
Whether it’s a tie or a misshapen suit, designers seemed to relish in their ability to put their spin on workwear tropes. Valentino and Prada opted for ties, while Loewe and Marni simply reimagined professional separates—think collared shirts, simple sweaters, blazers, and trousers.
6. Supersize It
Photos (L-R): Gucci; Marni; Altuzarra; Saint Laurent; Balenciaga; Bally;
Photos: Courtesy of Gucci; Courtesy of Marni; Courtesy of Altuzarra; Courtesy of Saint Laurent; Courtesy of Balenciaga; Courtesy of Bally
The supersized silhouette was first a favorite of Demna at Balenciaga. Today, Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent and the interim design team at Gucci solidified the relevance of those oversized shapes in the form of gigantic outerwear and baggy pants.
7. Slinky Knits
Photos (L-R): Givenchy; Saint Laurent; Luar; Altuzarra; Eckhaus Latta: Miu Miu;
Photos: Courtesy of Givenchy; Courtesy of Saint Laurent; Courtesy of Luar; Courtesy of Altuzarra; Madison Voelkel; Courtesy of Miu Miu
Knitwear's always a constant on the fall runways, but this year, the clingy silhouettes are both a little Y2K and a little ‘90s minimalism. The slinky separates add a bit of sex appeal without neglecting the material's signature cozy attitude.