Closure On The Runway

The asymmetry made its way to Paris, too. At Isabel Marant, things were a bit right of center with blue and red jackets featuring toggle closures that sat off to the side. At Hermés, jackets and dresses zipped up angularly and, in some instances, were paired with useless belts for an extra sense of closure. On Elie Saab's runway, jackets in leather, tweed, and wool featured asymmetric asymmetric buttons and were often only buttoned at the very top.

Our closure curiosity didn't stop asymmetry. At Khaite's Fall/Winter 2026 show, jackets with military-inspired frogging closures were presented overtop more traditional zippers and buttons—doubly secure closure, if you will.

Khaite's runway was also filled with false closures—chain belts looped into button holes on jackets and coats, alluding to the idea that they're helping keep the garments closed while actually serving no functional purpose at all.

Carolina Herrera's Fall/Winter 2026 show was filled with buttons that transcended functionality. They were anything but subtle and, instead, worked as accessories. A knit cardigan with dramatic puffed sleeves closed with gold calla lily buttons that emulated brooches and made a similar statement. A black blazer-style jacket was contrasted with oversized pearly white buttons creating a dark versus light dynamic. This is proof that even the most traditional of closures can be reinterpreted and hold the power to completely change a piece of clothing.

At the Blumarine show in Milan, the buttons were reminiscent of antique brooches and heirloom jewelry: gold and all with unique trimmings and centers, including flowers and butterflies. The buttons would make a statement on their own—as accessories or jewelry to complement a look—but make an extra statement due to their function.

On Hui's Milan runway, bird-shaped clasps held together tweed tops and skirts, blending functionality and decoration. Campillo's New York runway explored the use of decorative clasps, too, with stone-like designs that matched the statement necklaces paired with the looks.

These details are key design elements that are entirely necessary and, as presented throughout the month, can be played with in a way that makes closure a focal point. Now, as I go back and forth in an ongoing debate with myself about whether or not fashion should be fun or functional, it's safe to say that in the camp of both things being true at the same time.