This week marks the end of couture week, which gives us almost two weeks to recover before a month of ready-to-wear, starting in NYC. It was a week of couture perfection in many of our books. Starting out strong with Daniel Roseberry, who has become a bit of a couture master at Schiaparelli amongst many of the season’s relative “newcomers”. Then it was time to anticipate Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior Haute Couture collection and the British designer’s first ever exploration into couture. A breathtaking homage to Monsieur Dior, Raf Simons, John Galliano…the list goes on. Through an emphasis on the natural world and Dior’s deep connection to florals, Anderson brought Dior to life at the Musée Rodin.
Matthieu Blazy followed Anderson up at the Grand Palais with a set of giant mushrooms and blush pink willow trees. He too was entering the world of couture for the first time, and what an impression did he make! Blazy’s ability to tap the Chanel silhouette, reconsider and reinvent it with near-perfect delineation is just a delight to behold. Another collection to gush about for Blazy, which is hardly new at this point in his career.
Pieter Mulier Exits Alaïa
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These two took over headlines this week, until the news broke this morning that Pieter Mulier is leaving Alaïa. After five years at the helm, Mulier is said to show his final collection for the house this March in Paris for the FW26 season.
Loose rumors began to swirl in December about Mulier’s future after the sudden, swift departure of Dario Vitale at Versace, not long after debuting his first collection for the house (succeeding Donatella Versace). With the news of his Alaïa exit today, it is predicted that this is where we will find Mulier next, although nothing has been confirmed yet. “An announcement from Prada Group, which acquired the Italian fashion house last year, is expected as early as next week,” reported WWD on the news.
Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa means a great deal to the fashion set, so the speculation of his whereabouts and his successor will be a hotly debated topic until any official news is announced. Mulier started at Maison Alaïa in 2021, making him the first creative director of the brand since Azzedine Alaïa’s passing. Prior to his post at Alaïa, Mulier acted as Raf Simons’ most prominent right hand, interning for the Belgian designer in 2002 and rising to his head designer by 2003. From there, everywhere Simons went, (Dior, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander) Mulier followed. With Simons now comfortable in his position as co-creative director of Prada, it would be a full-circle moment for Mulier to end up at the now Prada Group-owned Versace.
“We sincerely thank Pieter for his vision and commitment, writing an important chapter in the ongoing evolution of the Maison,” read a statement from Myriam Serrano, Alaïa’s CEO. “Over the past five years, Pieter and the exceptional team he led have shaped Alaïa’s creative renewal, honouring its heritage and strengthening the Maison’s relevance, confidence, and global recognition.”
Balenciaga Releases Valentine’s Day-Themed Merch
Balenciaga
Balenciaga returns for another year of Valentines day merchandise with a series of t-shirts and hoodies printed with the "Love Equation"; the complex and influential theory attributed to theoretical physicist Paul Dirac said to describe quantum entanglement wherein two connected particles remain linked regardless of distance are printed in red. For those wanting slightly less conventional Valentines Day gift ideas next month, head to Balenciaga!
Dior Displays Couture To The Public
Dior
Off the back of his blockbuster couture debut, Jonathan Anderson his opening a selection of his couture designs for public viewing. From January 27 through February 1, the Musée Rodin will host “Grammar of Forms”, an exhibition highlighting a selection of Anderson’s haute couture designs in dialogue with iconic creations by Christian Dior and ceramic sculptures by Magdalene Odundo. Fashionphiles in Paris are not to miss!
Toteme Debuts Fall/Winter 2026 In Paris
Toteme
Toteme’s Elin King and Karl Lindman made the decision to show their Fall 26 collection in a Paris showroom this week amid the couture madness. It was reportedly a tiny show, just 50 guests invited to witness the brand’s offering this season. This decision was intentional as the collection that followed. 28 looks distilled into the most necessary silhouettes. There were shapes that we know and love Toteme for, like high-necked knitwear, slender coats, nappa leather separates in the form of jackets and skirts. Tiny kitten heels paired with slinky black leggings for an elongated effect. It was all there, and expertly done at that. Toteme as a brand is an exercise in longevity and endurance of silhouette, nothing says that like the everlasting presence King and Lindman are able to capture within their collections.
