When we think of European cities, what often comes to mind are cobblestone streets lined with historical architecture, culinary landscapes that surprise even the snobbiest of palates, and an arts-and-culture pedigree that’s unmatched. Lisbon, Portugal—one of the oldest of them all—still holds onto that same old-world charm without completely unplugging from modern life.

Every year, I embark on a weeks-long sojourn there where my husband and I live part-time. It’s the opposite of the fast-paced hustle we left behind in New York, and over the years, I’ve come to understand why Lisbon has such a stronghold over us: it’s a slow city, with a laidback way of life reminiscent of the easygoing cool of Hawaii. As a bona fide foodie and certified home cook, I fell in love with the food scene: the fresh catch straight off the Atlantic coastline, the crisp glasses of vinho verde, the rich, almost sinful, custard filling of a pastel de nata. What also keeps me coming back, besides the obvious draw of the sun and sea, is the fashion scene. Lisbon style is anything but minimalist, all color and confidence in a city that hardly does anything subtle, from the personality-packed prints to the over-the-top accessories—all locally made.

If you’re looking for the best spots to shop, eat, and wander, plus the hidden gems that get the seal of approval from locals, take a look at our Lisbon guide to study up before your trip.

Where to Stay

Bairro Alto Hotel

Situated in the heart of Chiado, Bairro Alto Hotel is a stalwart institution right in the center of downtown Lisbon. The 18th-century property, with its 2019 renovation helmed by award-winning architect Eduardo Souto de Moura, is so warm and welcoming that it almost feels like a home away from home—albeit with yellow trams rattling past the lobby door and Camões Square as its front yard. The Pastelaria, which is open to the public, is a stunning mid-century nod to the city’s topography and a good resting place after walking up and down the unforgiving hills of the city.

Hotel Tivoli Liberdade

Hotel Tivoli is the grande dame of Avenida da Liberdade and has been the address to stay in Lisbon since 1933. A favorite of the theater and film set back when the neighboring Teatro Tivoli was the place to see and be seen, its old-world glamour still emanates through its doors all thanks to the sprawling lobby with live jazz and stunning rooftop views of the city. It’s located right at the center of Liberdade, with neighbors including Loewe, Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu and more.

Hotel Da Baixa

Tucked between Praça do Comércio and Rossio, Hotel Da Baixa leans into its neighborhood’s name and history. Each floor was designed around a different emblematic Portuguese figure, and its rooms run larger than most in the neighborhood with views of Castelo São Jorge, Praça da Figueira, or the Tagus River. But the best part? It’s a 5-minute walk from all the action down in Rua Augusta Arch.

Where to Eat

Ramiro

It's not a trip to Lisbon without a pit-stop at the world-famous (and Anthony Bourdain-approved) Ramiro. The institution has been around since 1956 and serves up some of the freshest seafood straight from the coast. You can’t miss ordering the vongole, scarlet prawns, and the sapateira—a stuffed stone crab piled so high with roe that it looks like fondue. And if you can, save some room for the steak sandwich, which somehow doubles as the meal’s grand finale.

Pomme

There's a reason why locals and tourists keep coming back to Pomme. Tucked in a quiet street in Principe Real, the green apple-themed spot pulls global influences into a menu of small plates built for sharing—think lollipop chicken, octopus carpaccio, and a natural wine list that’s best enjoyed with friends.

Catinho do Avilez

An a la carte restaurant by Michelin-starred chef José Avillez, this buzzing urban bistro trades in simple, pared-back dishes that are anything but simple to pull off. Dishes are a contemporary spin on Portuguese classics shaped by Avillez’s travels overseas, served up in a room that feels more neighborhood canteen than fine dining, despite the pedigree behind the pass.

Where to Shop

EmbaiXada

EmbaiXada takes over a 19th-century neo-Moorish palace in Principe Real, where rooms that once hosted diplomats now house rotating pop-ups from Portuguese designers and brands across fashion, jewelry, home goods, and more. Climb the grand staircase, wander the courtyard, and don't be surprised if you leave with a new statement necklace or a sardine-shaped bar of soap.

Fashion Clinic 

Consider this Lisbon’s answer to a mini Barneys (R.I.P): a multi-brand luxury outpost on Avenida da Liberdade stocking Balenciaga, Lizzie Fortunato, Olympia Le Tan, and Saint Laurent alongside an exclusive Christian Louboutin corner. Right above its womenswear store is a chic home and lifestyle extension with an assortment of local and international brands, from Sabre and Ginori to Bordallo and House of Capricorn.

Loja Real

Set inside Principe Real’s Pink Palace, Loja Real is the neighborhood’s answer to a family-run concept store that houses clothes, books, home decor, and gifts for women, men, and kids, all curated with that distinct Lisbon flair.

Where to Wander

Chiado

If you're looking for a place that has everything in one place, from good brunch spots, coffee shops, and streets lined with boutiques, spend the day in Chiado where you can shop, sip, and snack your way through the afternoon without ever checking Google Maps.

Princepe Real

Principe Real is Lisbon’s answer to Paris’ Le Marais—think 19th-century mansions turned into concept stores, antique dealers and flea markets next to natural wine bars, and a public garden shaded by a centuries-old, umbrella-shaped cedar tree that makes a great spot for people watching. It’s the best place to explore under-the-radar gems that only locals know.

Cascais Marina

Open to a day trip 30 minutes away from the city? The quaint coastal town of Cascais offers stunning sea views and a slower pace that feels worlds away from downtown Lisbon. The marina is the town’s polished centerpiece, lined with yachts, restaurants, and boutiques that make it easy to lose an entire afternoon.