I first met hairstylist Joey George backstage before the double feature of Willy Chavarria’s atmospheric film and FW24 runway show. Models are swanning through the room in cowboy hats, leather jackets, and apparel ornamented with Catholic overtones. George is tending to a theatrically teased-up red wig, soon to be placed atop the model, Erica, who was cast as Chavarria’s mother in both the film and cast of runway models.
George works quickly but with steadied composure–he seems immune to the omnipresent mania of fashion week. Chavvaria’s collection is the first of five shows that George is working on as lead hair stylist for the duration of NYFW. Even as just a writer profiling his work, the itinerary is intimidating, but he has a contagious enthusiasm for his work that makes Fashion Week feel more playful and less like homework.
For each of George’s five shows in New York, he offered insight into the conception, inspiration, and process that culminated in these distinctly realized visions.
Willy Chavarria
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
What inspired the look for today?
“This season, instead of uniformity, I like to say that it was community. There's a lot of individuality, and a lot of the people casted are considered family to Willy. We have all different walks of life, lengths of hair, colors of hair, ages, genders, everything that you can think of, and we really worked best with who each person was. For instance, this is Erica, and she's playing Mother of the Haus.”
How would you describe Willy’s film?
“It's a very emotional film that will be shown at the beginning of the show, where Erica, the mom here, is begging her son not to leave the house, and he decides to leave in a fight, and he doesn't come back. It's a very emotionally driven sequence, and Erica, being the mother of the haus, must have super fab hair. I placed this amazing giant red wig on top, and her hair went over. To sculpt this wig, I used a product that Oribe makes called Swept Up. It's a dry, resiny, powdery product, and it just helps build texture to give you that big, voluminous hair.”
What other products were integral to making the hair story come together?
“Each individual has also had prime with Foundation Mist and a universal heat protectant spray, and that's just to preserve their hair for either under the wig or just as we're about to style it into something. We also have a lot of '70s looks. There are a few shags that are curly and cool. Yeah, there's some mullets. There are several different things that are all making up a community of individuals, so it's really a special project to be a part of, and I'm just very grateful. Willy is an absolute genius.”
What do you hope the audience takes away from the show today?
“I hope that this really moves them. I hope that this film asks you to look at the individuals around you and really value the relationships that you have in your life, but also I hope that they look at this fabulous hair and makeup, because it really took a lot of work to create these characters, and everyone is at an elevated version of themselves.”
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
Lapointe
Courtesy of Lapointe
Courtesy of Lapointe
What was the inspiration behind the look? What references did you pull?
“Sally Lapointe is an exciting and loving human being. Her appreciation for the talent, creatives, and contributors are unbound. Every show season, Sally has an empowerment message that inspires all women to be a part of it. Lapointe’s inspiration this season was ‘Back to School’ and it’s interpreted as that motivated feeling of empowerment for that first day of school or even before an important event. Looking and feeling your absolute ‘fiercest’ which leaves the audience with the feeling of one’s self-confidence. I pulled references of FKA Twigs, who for me, embodies personality, self-confidence, and style. The talent’s hair was prepared using Oribe Foundation Mist and Royal Blowout, then dried and stretched. We then used gel serum as edge control to form and sculpt the hair into two braided looks, depending on the hair length. Short hair was braided from the nape forward to the front hairline, and the braid was wrapped in a spiral on top of the head. Longer hair was split into four sections (two from the crown of the head back and two sections crown to the front hairline) and braided. The looks were finished off with a spritz of Royal Blowout for added high gloss shine.”
How does this look complement the designer's vision? How was that process of collaboration?
“Sally is a dream to collaborate with; I understand her vision and the women she designs clothing for. I always strive to create hairstyles that leave each talent feeling fierce.”
Diotima
Martina Keenan
Deirdre Lewis
Martina Keenan
What was the inspiration behind the hair today?
“I love Rachel Scott. She's one of my favorite designers, and everything she creates comes from this crocheted world. And as you can see with some of the shapes, it almost has what we would call a jellyfish shape where it kind of billows, and then you have those long hanging pieces. And that jellyfish shape is kind of what inspired some of the hairstyles. It almost looks like a beret.”
How did you achieve that jellyfish shape?
“I sectioned out the top of the head, and for this show, I worked with Kevin Murphy–I loved this product called Killer Curls, a curl cream. They also have a Curl Rejuvenating Spray, and everything was set with that [product] to make the texture was uniform and glossy.
“Some of the hair was pulled forward on top then tied it off in a ponytail. For some texture, I use a product called Bedroom Hair. It gives you a little bit of grip and hold. After I secured the ponytail, I pinned the hair on top of the head with two bobby pins and let the rest of the hair fall down in the back. I finished with either an iron or with some curl spray–that Killer Curl Rejuvenating Spray.”
How does this show compare to the last show you collaborated on with Scott?
“Rachel and I worked together last season, and the look was also braided and sculptural. It was really nice to have a little bit of a break because braiding is so detail-oriented, and it does take such a long time to do, and sometimes you don't have a lot of time. For this show, where we wanted the people to live within the space, the look needed to be versatile with all different hair textures. It was very quick and easy to do using the right products.”
Serayah at Diotima
Lyndon King
Serayah & Joey Badass
Lyndon King
Ulla Johnson
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
Courtesy of @nicholas.lattimore, @nocturnalfame, @lopera.lopera
What was the inspiration behind the look? What references did you pull?
“Ulla’s collection was inspired by the American painter Milton Avery. The colors and silhouettes used in Avery’s paintings are reflected in the clothing and in the set design for the show. After reviewing the art installation for the show space, I was inspired to create braided looks that resembled ‘lunar C shapes’ for several of the models’ hair. This is the first season that Ulla has expanded her designs to menswear. The collection featured a wide cast that walked in their individuality. For most of the talent, the hair was primed and prepared using Oribe Foundation Mist and Universal Heat Protectant Spray. Once fully diffused and dried, the hair was detailed with Oribe Feather Balm, and for some textures Matte Waves. Highly textured hair was stretched and blown dry with Oribe Foundation Mist and Balm D’or HeatShield and Royal Blowout to prep for braids. The hair was topped off with Superfine Hairspray and a spritz of Royal Blowout for shine.”
How does this look complement the designer's vision? How was that process of collaboration?
“The core beauty of Ulla Johnson is an elevated version of individuality. The hair is airy and has a Renaissance energy. Every season collaborating with Ulla is a dream!”
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Dion Trinidad
Dion Trinidad
Dion Trinidad
Happy Valentine’s Day! With a show at 9AM, how early did you have to get up?
“Not too early— just 4AM.”
Is this the last show for you?
“I have a meeting after this, but this is the last show in New York, then I go to London and Paris for shows.”
What was the inspiration behind the look today?
“The references reminded me of [the photographer] Peter Lindbergh's work, and the women he would photograph–Kate Moss, Naomi, basically all the supermodels in the nineties. Part of Peter’s iconic style is that he always liked the women to look quite natural, and that was Alejandra's inspiration as well. We added texture to the hair with a Resort Spray, which is similar to a salt spray; we sprayed a generous amount of that and diffused it into the hair.
“After the hair completely dried, I created a rope braid that goes towards the center of the head. Then I tied the hair into several different knots and took bobby pins and hairpins and pinned that into place. I used the Bedroom Texturizing Hairspray, to finish everything off.”
As a hairstylist, is there any look you’ve always wanted to try on a runway but haven’t had the opportunity yet?
“I'm always experimenting in my art studio. I mix human hair and paint, and the combination of the two to create these sculptural hair shapes. I've done [designs like this] for editorial, but I think it would be really cool–with the right designer and collection– to do something experimental and sculptural with the hair for a show. I would also really love to do something with a sculpted wig. I think that that could be beautiful and timeless, something that feels like walking art.”
Courtesy of Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Courtesy of Alejandra Alonso Rojas
Courtesy of Alejandra Alonso Rojas