For the uninitiated, using an acid on your face sounds pretty intense. (We’re referring, of course, to acids for your skin.) It also doesn’t help that acids get a bad rap for being too harsh and too aggressive. But, when used correctly, skincare acids can legit transform your skin—and no that isn’t an exaggeration. Especially glycolic acid, an oldie-but-goodie skincare ingredient that can provide countless benefits for the skin without stinging or any reptilian levels of shedding. Ahead, we reached out to Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Cornell-New York Presbyterian Medical Center, to help explain how glycolic acid works and what exactly it can do for your skin.
What is glycolic acid?
“Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) which means that it’s a water-soluble exfoliating acid,” says Dr. Garshick. It acts as a chemical exfoliant by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, explains Dr. Garshick. Because it has the smallest molecular weight of any alpha hydroxy acid, glycolic acid penetrates the skin more deeply, making it one of the stronger, more potent AHAs.
What are the benefits of glycolic acid for skin?
Because glycolic acid helps get rid of dead skin cells, it’ll improve both texture and tone. “Glycolic acid tends to be preferable for people who are looking to address changes in skin tone,” says Dr. Garshick. This includes hyperpigmentation and discoloration, adds Dr. Garshick. Also, glycolic acid is a great anti-aging ingredient—it’s been found to work on the skin’s deeper layers to promote collagen production and improve the look of fine lines and wrinkles.
Who should use skincare products with glycolic acid?
Overall, says Dr. Garshick, glycolic acid is pretty good for anyone with normal-to-combination skin, and those who are dealing with hyperpigmentation, melasma, and sun damage. Because glycolic acid is a more potent AHAs, “those who have sensitive skin or rosacea-prone skin may prefer to use a different type of exfoliating acid,” explains Dr. Garshick.
How does glycolic acid fit into your skincare routine?
With most exfoliating products, Dr. Garshick recommends using it one to two times per week, depending on your specific skincare concern, the percentage or concentration of the exfoliating acid, and your skin type. “Sometimes, exfoliating acids are built into cleansers at a low concentration, and those are usually fine to use daily,” she adds.
“If you’re using other active ingredients like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide,” says Dr. Garshick, “it’s generally best to avoid using them on the same day at the same time because it can lead to extra sensitivity and irritation of the skin when doing so.” If you have sensitive skin, Dr. Garshick recommends doing a patch test before you begin using a new exfoliating product.
The Best Skincare Products with Glycolic Acid
Self Smooth 10% Glycolic Resurfacing Serum
This serum combines the brightening powers of glycolic acid and vitamin C to help boost a dull complexion and improve uneven skin tone and texture. The formula is also infused with oat extract to soothe skin and fight against irritation.
The Smoother Glycolic Acid Body Lotion
If you’re tired of dealing with those little patches of dry skin and rough bumps on your body, this lotion is here for you. The glycolic-acid infused formula flicks off layers of dead skin to leave your complexion a lot more silky and a lot less dull.
Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toning Solution
This toner from The Ordinary clears pores of dirt and built-up sebum and helps your other skincare products penetrate better, resulting in a brighter and more even-toned complexion.
Super Radiance Resurfacing Facial Treatment
With a formula chock-full of a blend AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, this product works on different layers of the skin to fade stubborn dark spots, unclog pores, and smooth out bumps.
Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant
In addition to 8% glycolic acid, you’ll also find chamomile, green tea, and hyaluronic acid inside this gel exfoliant to produce an almost immediate effect on your skin texturally and tonally while also providing antioxidant protection and hydration.
Vinoperfect Brightening Glycolic Night Cream
Add a thin layer of this night cream on your skin before heading to bed, and you’ll wake up with glowier skin that feels smooth to the touch, thanks to the combination of glycolic acid, papaya extract, and vine sap-derived Viniferine in the formula.