Paris Haute Couture week came and went in a flash this year. Between a sentimental swan song show from Demna before he heads to Gucci, and a blockbuster couture (and creative directorship) debut from Glenn Martens, there was plenty to discuss.
Daniel Roseberry opened the week with a collection that left us collectively in awe at his imagination which seemingly knows no bounds. This season, softness replaced sculpture, bodily anatomy in full focus with silhouettes that will be sure to swiftly reemerge on the red carpet.
Dior was absent from the Haute Couture calendar this season, after Jonathan Anderson's debut menswear collection and the massive in-house shift that is undoubtedly taking place as the Irish designer settles into his post. There's always next year. Elsewhere, Chanel didn't miss a beat, producing another collection created by the in-house team to give Matthieu Blazy—another superstar designer who has not yet taken on couture—some breathing room before he debuts his first ready-to-wear collection for the house in September. Similarly, Jean-Paul Gaultier—famous for employing a host of guest designers for couture each season is settling new creative director Duran Lantink into his post before Spring/Summer shows commence.
And then there was Glenn Martens, who dived headfirst into his first Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela, and proved that having chops pays off, especially as a follow up to John Galliano's legacy at the house. It was all of the makings of a triumphant debut collection: confidence, respect for existing house codes, attention to detail and savoir-faire, restraint. Martens displayed it all, and gave us all a taste of the wow factor we've all been waiting for.
Below, see all of our favorite moments from Paris Fall 2026 Haute Couture week.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga
I loved that the last ook encapsulated all of the reasons why Demna's language intrinsically worked at a house like Balenciaga. The guipure lace, the stiffness of the skirt, even the model's hair, natural and loose and tumbling down the back. A perfect way to close out a legacy.
Balenciaga
This reference is more sentimental than anything, as the opening look for Demna's first-ever couture collection at Balenciaga was a black suit with a red carnation fastened onto the lapel. This look signifies both the growth and the continuity of Demna's perspective.
Chanel
Chanel
I enjoyed this interplay between hyper-feminine fabrics and cuts with a slightly cooler, more relaxed bottom. The organza cape layered over a guipure lace bralette into a low slung tweed fringe skirt with white leather walking boots was the perfect balance.
Schiaparelli
Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry near-outdid himself this season, and this vermillion charmeuse gown was a perfect example. I loved how the draped and gathered panels revealed sheer windows of slightly exposed skin.
Schiaparelli
Roseberry 1-upped all of the horse girls in the chat with this satin saddle dress. Giddy up!
Robert Wun
Getty Images
Robery Wun's Fall 2026 Haute Couture collection was nothing short of haunting, and his opening (and closing) look demonstrated the sentiment best. A satin ivory gown with a duvet-like padded shawl is beaded with blood-red spatters and hand prints.
Getty Images
Similarly I loved Wun's closing bridal look. The structured corset, tulle, and visible crinoline were all structurally perfect, but the elephant in the room was the small figurine perched on top of the bride's head carrying the veil. Was it a metaphor for the weight of expectation from a designer who is constantly bucking against it?
Iris Van Herpen
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This resin-coated silk dress at Iris Van Herpen defied gravity and appeared as though it was plunged into water, the current pulling the dress away and wrapping around her torso. True couture.
Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela
Glenn Martens' Masion Margiela couture debut featured so many notable moments, but one of them was this gown crafted from aged-bronze oscillating duchess, woven with metal threads. Drawing from religious imagery, this reimagining of a saintly figurine was truly exciting to witness.
Maison Margiela
Elsewhere in what felt exciting: This draped jersey gown with a waist-nipping corset and ruby and diamond necklace. Any non-traditionalist brides out there?
