viktor and rolf couture collection
Fashion Week

Viktor & Rolf’s Entire Couture Collection Used Only One Material

What they did with it is mind-boggling.

Molly SJ Lowe

For the past few seasons, Viktor & Rolf’s collections were all about pushing boundaries with recycling and finding new ways to repurpose vintage gowns. This season, the Dutch duo has a new obsession: satin duchesse.

Using the iconic couture material, the designers crafted an entire creation using the same fabric in different colorways. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren manipulated the fabric, which wasn’t silk but a technical satin duchesse from Japan, into impressive strips and checks, as well as giant ruffled capes, bows, and intricate flowers that adorned sleeves, torsos, and sat atop heads as large-scale headpieces. Strips of fabric were laser-cut, then woven to create bold textures that could be found on mini-dresses and patchworked onto voluminous skirts.

Peter Philips gave the models bold, graphic eyes using dense sparkles clustered into squares around the eye, while Damien Boissinot created windswept braids.

Click through to see the collection up close, and to hear how the single-fabric collection inspired the bold glitter eye.


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“There are three or four girls with no makeup, and then about ten girls are color-blocking in super glitter,” explained lead makeup artist Peter Philips.
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