viktor and rolf couture collection

Viktor & Rolf’s Entire Couture Collection Used Only One Material

What they did with it is mind-boggling.

By: Samantha Tse
Photography: Molly SJ Lowe

For the past few seasons, Viktor & Rolf’s collections were all about pushing boundaries with recycling and finding new ways to repurpose vintage gowns. This season, the Dutch duo has a new obsession: satin duchesse.

Using the iconic couture material, the designers crafted an entire creation using the same fabric in different colorways. Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren manipulated the fabric, which wasn’t silk but a technical satin duchesse from Japan, into impressive strips and checks, as well as giant ruffled capes, bows, and intricate flowers that adorned sleeves, torsos, and sat atop heads as large-scale headpieces. Strips of fabric were laser-cut, then woven to create bold textures that could be found on mini-dresses and patchworked onto voluminous skirts.

Peter Philips gave the models bold, graphic eyes using dense sparkles clustered into squares around the eye, while Damien Boissinot created windswept braids.

Click through to see the collection up close, and to hear how the single-fabric collection inspired the bold glitter eye.


“There are three or four girls with no makeup, and then about ten girls are color-blocking in super glitter,” explained lead makeup artist Peter Philips.

“The whole collection is made out of one type [of] fabric. And that was very directive for me. It was like there was a very simple, basic concept. One fabric, satin, and it’s a very strong concept,” Philips said.

“The crosses on the eye are the same as the pattern in the dresses. It’s actually literally the same color as the fabric that we brought back in glitter on the eye. So that was the group of four. And then the rest is like tone on tone.”

“It looks great with the glitter around the eyes. Very linear, the graphic, which brings back all the elements that you find through the weaving and through the way they made the collection,” said Philips.

“The Caucasian girls were all salmon, so we got like tone on tone. So naturally, we had the really dark brown on the dark girls, and more like a copper-brandy color on the warmer skin tone girls. So it kind of matched the skin tone. So that was the idea behind it.”

“The hair was all about the braid,” said lead hairstylist Damien Boissinot. “We messed it up so it’s not too romantic.”

“It’s just beautiful skin. No contouring, no highlighting. Not even mascara. Just a lip balm,” said Philips. “The girls that were natural, we just enhanced a little with eyebrows and a bit of mascara on the roots of the lashes. That’s it.”

“It was an ambiance of flowers, movement, and wind. The hair had pieces gently pulled out to feel like it’s windblown,” said Boissinot.

“It was about fragility and effortlessness. We put flowers in the braids and messed it up so it was messy but still organized,” said Boissinot.