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10 Years In, Self-Portrait’s Star Power Remains Undefeated

After a decade of dressing the world’s most-recognizable women, founder and creative director Han Chong chats with us about the evolution of self-portrait’s fashion fairytale.

Fashion
Bella Hadid for self-portrait

It’s been 10 years since London-based womenswear label self-portrait opened its doors, and this summer, founder and creative director Han Chong’s undeniably posh and timeless designs have been handpicked by all kinds of royalty, from the Princess of Wales to Queen Bey. Fresh off of his star-studded summer party in Ibiza (co-hosted by actress and bona-fide style icon Sienna Miller), the Malaysian-born designer exclusively opened up to Coveteur about the brand’s sizzling hot summer. Beloved by a legion of A-list admirers and everyday fashion fans alike, Chong has a rare and innate insight into what his customer wants in her wardrobe—flatteringly feminine silhouettes crafted from delicate fabrications with an unapologetic girly sensibility. Each piece is appropriate for everything from a day at the office to a night out on the town.

Han Chong & Sienna Miller at the self-portrait Summer Lunch in Ibiza.

Photos: Courtesy of self-Portrait

Kate Middleton, an emblem of the above desires, donned self-portrait to King Charles's pre-coronation reception in May, the reopening of the National Portrait Gallery in June, and the Wimbledon women’s finals in July. The summer reached a boiling point when longtime fan of the brand, Beyoncé strutted out in Washington, D.C. wearing a stage-worthy custom gilded gold self-portrait number, styled by Julia Sarr-Jamois. Here, Chong turned up the frequency of creativity. The first look featured a hand-embellished sequin mesh bodysuit with torso cutout detailing, long sleeves featuring festively feathered cuffs, and a matching swinging miniskirt. Belting out fan-favorite hits and new chart-topping tracks, the record-breaking Grammy winner performed in another self-portrait creation just a week later: a bespoke Barbie-core moment in Atlanta, Georgia. This rendition featured a fuchsia cutout leotard with pom-pom plumage and a bedazzled cap. Far funkier and more retro than Chong's typical designs, the ensembles were made for the high-octane energy of the stadium performances. “The team and I really enjoyed being asked to be a part of this momentous tour by designing looks that would stand out on stage and would become chapters in the iconic set and wardrobe,” Chong explains.

Photo: Courtesy of self-portrait

Photo: Beyonce Parkwood Entertainment Atlanta

Throughout the tour, Beyoncé has sported surrealist, club-ready fashions from the industry’s most venerable houses. Each evokes the electrifying music of the Renaissance album, which pays homage to the nostalgic disco scene and ballroom culture. “I was really inspired by disco and the fun people had dressing during that era,” says Chong. The Central Saint Martins alum notes that he wanted the designs to make the songstress “shine on stage.”

In the days before self-portrait’s theatrical inclusion in the Renaissance tour wardrobe, Katy Perry, Alicia Keys, Eve, BLACKPINK's Jennie, and Rita Ora all stepped out in Chong’s quintessentially chic designs, marking a high profile pop star era for the label. “It's always very surreal,” says Chong. “I don't think that I’ll ever get used to seeing such incredible women wearing my designs. It’s a wonderful feeling.”

Supermodel Gigi Hadid has graced plenty of self-portrait’s campaigns, shot in New York, London, and now, for the first time in the label’s history, Paris. Lensed by British photographer Tyrone Lebon, Hadid posed in the Fall/Winter 2023 campaign, featuring a slinky seaglass blue sequined asymmetric off-the-shoulder mid-length dress, two-piece skirt sets with matching glittering gold crop tops, structured double-breasted cream-colored knit blazers, and a posh fuchsia boucle three-piece set including a crop top, strong-shouldered cropped jacket, with a pleated miniskirt, all photographed against the romantic Parisian architecture. “To be able to shoot with the self-portrait team who have become such incredible partners and friends, made it an even more memorable experience,” Hadid said in an official release.

Always one to sing the model’s praises, Chong says, “I could talk about the magnetism of Gigi for days. She’s become a really important part of the self-portrait family. She's always perfectly embodied the modern self-portrait woman—she's free-spirited, confident yet sensitive, and always joyful. It's become a very collaborative partnership and one that I really cherish.”

The brand’s far-reaching celebrity clientele is nothing new. Since self-portrait’s inception, bloggers and influencers have displayed a loyal affinity towards the lacey label, whose occasionwear grew to catch the eye of former First Lady Michelle Obama, the Duchess of Sussex Meghan Markle, Princess Beatrice, socialite sisters Nicky and Paris Hilton, Tracee Ellis-Ross, Reese Witherspoon, Naomi Campbell, Jennifer Coolidge, Zendaya, and more.

The viral, versatile, and cult-beloved “Azaelea” dress has won over the hearts of everyone from stylish wedding guests to notable red carpet attendees like Game of Thrones actress Maisie Williams and supermodel Miranda Kerr. Upon the release of the best-selling frock back in 2015, you’d be hard-pressed to miss the A-line cutout guipure-lace cocktail dress around every corner. An essential ingredient cooked into the brand’s signature sartorial recipe, the enduring style continues to be one on everybody’s wishlist and is still in circulation on the brand’s official website and from retailers like Net-a-Porter, Revolve, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdales and more.

While the designs have evolved to more sensual, rhinestone-embellished sheer mesh pieces, Chong’s perennial formula of wardrobe staples including classic tailored tweed and frilly lace remains intact. Throughout the brand’s rise, Chong has made a habit of keeping us all on our toes. Since 2020, Chong has opened over 40 stores in China along with self-portrait’s flagship in London. After gaining a reputation for his prim tea-length lace dresses, the brand expanded its category offering into outerwear, knitwear, kids’, bridal, swimsuits and cover-ups, and last year, self-portrait branched out to the accessories market with the launch of the Naomi Campbell-approved Bow Bag.

Photo: Courtesy of self-portrait

Photo: Courtesy of self-portrait

In December 2021, Chong announced the formation of his holding company SP Collection, under which he acquired the luxury label Roland Mouret, in partnership with Mr. Mouret himself. Chong has vowed to reenergize and resurrect the brand and is expanding his reach to a wider demographic of womenswear consumers. The designer is playing the long game and paying it forward in the process, supporting the “next generation of creative talent” through the self-portrait scholarship program with his alma mater, Central Saint Martins.

After 10 years, self-portrait continues to his meteoric rise. “I'm very proud of the brand self-portrait has become,” he says. “It's not easy running a business, but I have always had faith in our creative language and in our customer.” Chong adds, “To be as relevant as we have been is a testament to the strength of the wider team and the relationship we have with our audiences around the world.”

But that’s part of self-portrait’s charm—as the go-to label for your favorite celebs, Chong has steadfastly and strategically kept his price-point at the democratic end of the designer market, hovering around the $500-mark. Wearable for every woman, the relatively accessible prices make his designs an achievable aspiration in luxury ready-to-wear, swimwear, accessories, and handbags. While Beyoncé seems to think, “It should cost a billion to look this good,” Chong clearly disagrees.

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