Fashion

48 Hours At Milan Fashion Week With Senior Fashion Editor Ella O'Keeffe

Where to stay, what to eat, and how to survive.

48 Hours At Milan Fashion Week With Senior Fashion Editor Ella O'Keeffe

Ciao Milano! I miss you already.

Back in February during the Fall/Winter 2026 season, Italy's fashion capital came alive, as it does at least twice a year, to host the women's ready-to-wear shows from our favorite Italian houses. Being on the ground and knowing that the week ahead was going to be packed with shows, re-see's, dinners and afterparties, I knew that having my own space would be crucial to not only feeling slightly more at home amid the chaos, but for a sense of total privacy, too. There is perhaps nothing more jarring than trying to squeeze in a 45 minute nap before dinner and forgetting to put DND on your door handle, only to be awoken by housekeeping standing in your hallway and having to shakily request that they come back later. It's happened to me more times than I'd like to admit. I digress. It's easy to get overwhelmed during fashion week, so I decided to lean into privacy with the help of Airbnb.

Over in Porta Venezia, which is a pretty part of town, I arrived at my Airbnb halfway through the week, well primed for some peace and quiet. Below, is my guide to doing Milan right when you're in the thick of shows, need quiet time, and a couple of good meals to get you through.

Stay

There is nothing quite like spending a month in hotels and staying with friends and walking into a place that is entirely your own for a couple of days. Checking into my Porta Venezia Airbnb felt like a true escape (an escape with a living room and kitchen all to myself). With everything I could need, this beautifully designed space became my home for five nights, giving me a sense of grounding amid the chaos. Waking up and making my own breakfast in the peace and quiet of my own space felt like such a luxury, and walking out the door every day made me feel situated like a local. Porta Venezia is also the perfect area in the city, easily accessible via train, trolley, or whatever other mode of transport you prefer, and feels more neighborhood-y than a lot of the rest of Milan.

Eat

There is one place you must visit when you go to Milan and it's La Latteria. This mom & pop-run restaurant was bought by Loro Piana last year after the news came that the beloved seven-table institution would soon close due to the Maggi family's retirement. This no-booking, no fuss spot offers some of the most perfect food you can have in Italy. If you find yourself in Milan and prepared to wait in line for a table (I got lucky one Wednesday and did not have to, so there is hope), it's worth every moment. Get the zuchinni with mustard sauce. Don't sleep on the pasta pommodoro.

If, like me, your days are consumed by either attending shows or trying to figure out the quickest way to get to your next show and then travelling to said next show, you'll know that lunch is often skipped and time is of the essence. A friend reccomended Princi for a quick bite—a walk in bakery serving Milanese delights and plenty of Mortadella sandwiches to keep you well fueled while on the go.

Finally, for a true Milanese meal, it doesn't get more authentic than Trattoria Milanese. Go for the Milanese crumbed meats and stay for the ossobuco and tortellini en brodo.

Do

Party!

I didn't have much time to do anything but my job. After all, this is a fashion week guide, not a tourist guide. When EsDeeKid is rumored to perform at the Gucci afterparty, you must go. That's all! Ciao.

The Latest