“I’m not a confident cook,” says
Ina Garten
, 12-time cookbook author and star of the Emmy award-winning show
The Barefoot Contessa
on the Food Network, now in its 26th season. “In a funny way, when I first started this, I thought, ‘What makes me think I can write cookbooks?’ But as time went on, I realized my anxiety is actually just like everybody else’s. Cooking is hard! I’ve never worked on a line in a restaurant, I didn’t go to culinary school, and in fact, I think that’s actually helped my cookbook writing because if a recipe is too complicated or takes too long, I’m never going to make it again, and I think other people feel the same way.”
One certainly doesn’t expect to hear one of America’s most beloved, James Beard Award
–
winning cookbook authors, aka
The Barefoot Contessa
, say she’s not a confident cook. Or, for that matter, that cooking is hard. But that is the secret sauce to her great success over the past two decades—she is a student of her own at-home cooking education, just like most of her adoring fans.
“Sometimes you’ll spend a weekend doing a project and bake bread,” says Garten, who has joined me via Zoom from her picturesque kitchen in East Hampton wearing her signature button-down shirt. “But most of the time you just want to get dinner on the table.”
Garten has been feeding her fans exactly that for decades—recipes that are approachable, comforting, and most importantly, delicious. They’re straightforward and exacting, meticulously tested, and don’t require 1,000 different ingredients from various specialty shops. If you pick up one of her books having never cooked anything in your life, you could fairly easily try one of the recipes and finish with something delicious (provided you follow all the steps, of course). It all started with her popular Hamptons food store, The Barefoot Contessa, where locals relied on her for turkey meatloaf, barbecued chicken and orzo, and banana muffins.
Her latest cookbook, titled
Modern Comfort Food
, was released on October 6th—not coincidentally, it was just in time for the presidential election. In the introduction, she writes, “During times of financial and political stress, there’s something about a hamburger and Coke or a big bowl of beef stew that makes us just feel better. They’re not fancy—in fact, quite the opposite. They’re familiar, delicious, and soul-satisfying. In other words, they’re comfort food.”
Modern Comfort Food
is filled with just the kind of food you want to eat and drink in these unsettling times, like grilled cheese and tomato soup, beef stew, pizza, and giant chocolate-chip cookies. Garten toyed with classic, familiar flavors and put her own updated spin on them. The creamy tomato bisque, for example, has just a hint of saffron that brings an ever-so-subtle heat to the dish that’s a bit unexpected. And the grilled cheese (“the ultimate comfort food,” says Garten) isn’t simply white bread with cheddar; it’s extra-sharp white cheddar with mango chutney. The nachos in the book get an upgrade with jumbo lump crab meat.
And, of course, there are some excellent, stiff cocktails in there, as well. Though she nearly broke the internet in the early days of quarantine with
her Instagram post
featuring an extra large cosmopolitan, which provided some much-needed levity for people during some very dark times (and resurfaced again during election week), she’s traded out her cosmos as of late for something a little different.
“Wasn’t that funny? Everybody just went crazy when I posted that,” says Garten during our interview on November 5th, when Americans were still glued to CNN waiting for a final election result and relying on cocktails and comfort food for some much-needed solace. “I love the pomegranate gimlets in the new book. They’re kind of autumnal because of the pomegranate, and they are just so good.”
Never one to stay idle, she’s already in the middle of her next cookbook (due out in 2022) and a memoir (due out in 2023) and hard at work on a new design book as we speak.
“I just remember after the first book came out, I thought, ‘Well, that’s it. I’m done. That’s all my recipes,” says Garten as she flashes that signature, apple-cheeked warm smile, and we both have a good laugh.
Here, Garten chats with Coveteur about what food is comforting her most right now, entertaining in the time of COVID (when in doubt, order pizza delivery!), and what she’s cooking up for Thanksgiving with her husband, Jeffrey.
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Cheddar & Chutney Grilled Cheese
Isn’t a really good grilled cheese sandwich the ultimate comfort food? This isn’t Wonder Bread with some mystery cheese inside—it’s bakery white bread piled high with extra sharp cheddar and savory chutney to brighten the flavor. A bowl of Creamy Tomato Bisque (page 83) to go with it wouldn’t hurt either.
Makes 6 Sandwiches
Photo: Quentin Bacon/Modern Comfort FoodIngredients:
12 (¼-inch-thick) slices good bakery white bread
¼ pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 (8.5-ounce) jar mango chutney, such as Stonewall Kitchen
3 cups grated extra-sharp white cheddar (8 ounces) (see note)
Creamy Tomato Bisque
Isn’t a steaming bowl of tomato soup the ultimate comfort food? While heating up a can of tomato soup may do in a pinch, the real thing is so much better—with slowly sautéed onions and leeks plus good Italian tomatoes and a hint of saffron. You’ll never go back to that can again!
Serves 8
Ingredients:
3 tbsp unsalted butter
good olive oil
1½ cups chopped yellow onion (1 large)
¾ cup chopped shallots (2 large)
1 cup chopped leek, white and light green parts, spun-dried
3 (28-ounce) cans crushed tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
4 cups whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
½ tsp saffron threads
¼ tsp crushed red pepper flakes
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated Italian Parmesan, for garnish
minced fresh parsley, for garnish
Black & White Cookies
Black-and-white cookies came to New York City with immigrants from Eastern Europe. They’re actually more like tender little cakes than cookies, and they’re always iced with vanilla and chocolate frosting. Be sure to turn them over and glaze the flat bottoms, not the rounded tops. These are my favorite black-and-white cookies ever!
Makes 10 Large Cookies
Photo: Quentin Bacon/Modern Comfort FoodIngredients:
10 tbsp (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1 extra-large egg, at room temperature
2 tsp pure vanilla extract
1¾ cups all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp baking soda
½ tsp kosher salt
¹⁄₃ cup sour cream
