We are directly in the middle of Milan Fashion Week, and I’m writing this fashion bulletin dispatch from bed ahead of the Gucci show this afternoon, which will be Demna’s first runway show for the house since his September film debut (more on the show, later). Naturally, all fashion eyes are on the Italian city until we all head to Paris this weekend for the final leg, and it’s been what feels like a fruitful season here in Milan, or maybe it’s just the fact that I am out of freezing New York and so therefore have room to feel inspired instead of spending all of my physical and emotional energy trying to stay warm. Food for thought?
My week started at Jil Sander for Simone Bellotti’s sophomore show for the house. It was a perfect collection. I wrote my full thoughts in a review earlier in the week, but at the re-see yesterday I spoke with Bellotti a little more about his highlights from the show, which was, ultimately, having everyone in the showroom to see the collection, and the music, produced exclusively by Laurel Halo and with a voiceover by Kim Gordon. Bellotti lit up when he spoke about the custom tracks that accompanied the show. The creative director has spoken before about the importance of electronic dance music in both his life and his work, an influence that now carries over as he builds his oeuvre at the Italian house. Touching and feeling the clothes up close was also important for a brand like Jil Sander, where the details are everything. There were satin water shoes with rubber soles, wool coats with white tack stitch details, and featherlight knit tank tops without seams that felt like second skins. A sensory triumph all ‘round.
Meryll Rogge Debuts Her First Marni Collection
Launchmetrics
Launchmetrics
Eyes were on Marni last night as Meryll Rogge made her debut for the house, which ended up having plenty more restraint than we are used to at Francesco Risso’s Marni, and felt more akin to what we knew of the brand in the '90s. This was both refreshing and certainly will draw in a broader customer base, as Rogge riffed on some of the house’s quintessential codes of Milanese modernism. I thought it was both fresh and timeless; an exciting new chapter for Marni, indeed.
Armani Threw An A-List Party
Emporio Armani
To celebrate their new fragrance launch, The Power Of You, last night Emporio Armani threw a star-studded party in Milan with Global Fragrance Ambassadors Kendall Jenner and Nicholas Galitzine, In attendance alongside the two ambassadors were Clara Galle, Nuno Gallego, Margarida Coceiro, Danielle Marcan, Aida Kurmangaliye, and more. With a DJ line-up featuring Paloma Le Friant and Chloe Caillet, and a special live performance by the Italian pop singer Elodie, it was a night to remember in the Italian fashion capital.
Bella Hadid Walked Prada Four Times
Launchmetrics/Prada
Launchmetrics/Prada
Over at Prada yesterday, the tone was very much set when a very late Mark Zuckerberg and his wife settled into the front row, and, unsurprisingly, a surprising show followed. Most notably was Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada’s decision to cast only 15 models in the show, giving each girl four changes, where their hair and makeup became purposefully messier with each exit. Bella Hadid was part of this fun little party trick, drawing plenty of eyes as she seems to only pop up once or twice a season these days. The collection itself was Prada perfection as usual. Mrs. Prada is often thinking about how to reinterpret what the everyday wearer has in their wardrobe, and between the worn-in bomber jackets and crumpled poplin shirts and pencil skirts, it’s safe to say the design duo once again hit the nail on the head.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s First Fendi Foray
Launchmetrics
Launchmetrics
For Maria Grazia Chiuri’s return to Fendi, where she now sits at the helm as chief creative officer, the Italian designer settled in perfectly with a collection that was very notably her. As we’ve gotten to know Chiuri as a singular designer during her nine-year tenure at Dior, there are particular codes that she loves, and she had no issue employing these silhouettes over at the Roman house, while splicing these tricks with the codes that Fendi is best known for. In the Chiuri-isms department: black lace, watery, fluid gowns, detached collars, a deep V neckline, emblazoned slogans with declarations such as “rooted but not stuck.” In the Fendi department: a series of reworked baguettes, an unabashed surplus of furs. Chiuri’s goal for her first FW26 collection for the house was togetherness. I say she towed the line well.
