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Louis Vuitton Cruise Lands In Avignon & Thoughts On Pierpaolo At Balenciaga

This week on the Fashion Bulletin.

Louis Vuitton Cruise Lands In Avignon & Thoughts On Pierpaolo At Balenciaga
Getty Images; Grey Sorrenti for Loewe

Welcome back to Fashion Bulletin, a weekly column where Coveteur's senior fashion editor, Ella O’Keeffe, recaps all the buzzy industry news you may have missed from the week.

There's a lot to unpack in fashion this week. Naturally, the news of Piccioli’s appointment at Balenciaga has superseded most other fashion industry news. Kering makes a calculated decision with Piccioli, betting on someone whose oeuvre has proven consistency and stability throughout his 25-year tenure at Valentino, rather than an untested candidate who is rising in the ranks. On one hand, many of us are disappointed that the position has once again been handed to a male candidate, especially with the likes of Martine Rose primed for a spot at Balenciaga. On the other hand, Piccioli’s exacting vision and skill level is not to be discredited.

Under his new direction, it’s expected that the Italian designer will pull references from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s archive, with an essential focus on couture. In essence, I do feel this shake-up is necessary both for Demna—who will now take the helm at Gucci with a debut in September (whether his approach is your cup of tea is another story)—and Piccioli, whose skill level won’t be lost at Balenciaga.

Louis Vuitton goes mythical for Cruise 2026 

Louis Vuitton Cruise 2026Getty Images

Last night, the Louis Vuitton Cruise show took place in Avignon with a 45-look collection which offered a look into what Nicholas Ghesquière is obsessing over at this point in time. It all felt deeply religious and glamorous at the same time, with myth and medieval motifs woven through brocade jackets and silk gowns, referencing everything from King Arthur to the Lady of the Lake. I loved the low slung waists on the tiered silk and chiffon dresses, the warrior-esque boots and the armor-like leather mini dresses. Mostly Ghesquière is looking forward—the French designer is famously enamored with sci-fi ideas. Here, to witness him look back and apply his incredible skill to the past felt like a treat.

Louise Trotter's quiet Bottega debut at Cannes

Vicky Krieps in Bottega VenetaGetty Images

Julianne Moore in Bottega Veneta

Getty Images

Speaking of a treat, we got to see the first glimpses of Louise Trotter’s Bottega Veneta this week at Cannes on both Julianne Moore and Vicky Krieps. Moore’s column dress with a leather shoulder tassel detail both felt identifiable to Bottega’s essence, while also capturing Trotter’s inherent approach to form and silhouette. Vicky Krieps’ intrecciato leather backless apron top for a photocall was both sexy and perfectly sophisticated. This is what Trotter does best, and affirms the adage of the "for women by women" philosophy. Looking forward, the moments we’ve witnessed this week feel promising for Trotter’s future at Bottega.

Loewe's F/W '25 campaign lensed by Gray Sorrenti 

Loewe F/W '25 pre-collectionGray Sorrenti via Loewe

Elsewhere by way of updates and looking to the past, Loewe this week celebrated 10 years of their iconic puzzle bag, celebrating with a series of limited edition re-issues of their favorite puzzle bag collaborations, and debuted their F/W ‘25 pre-collection campaign, shot by Gray Sorrenti. In the images, Sorrenti conducts a character study on the protagonists of her lens.

Loewe F/W '25 pre-collection

Gray Sorrenti via Loewe

The internet has locked in on Josh O’Connor in particular, who slumps in a chair, lounges on a sofa, and leans languidly against a wall in all his tortured white boy glory. Elsewhere, Greta Lee is seen posing in the sun, leaning through windows, perched on desks…assuming the position of the Hollywood dream girl.

Jimmy Choo taps into SATC nostalgia 

Another re-edition moment comes via Jimmy Choo. This week, the brand released a series of sandals from the archive—specifically, silhouettes that featured in Carrie Bradshaw’s wardrobe during Sex And The City, such as the famous lilac feathered strappy sandal that caused Bradshaw to yell, ‘I lost my Choo!’".

To celebrate, I attended a party Jimmy Choo held in collaboration with Moda Operandi in the Lower East Side bar, Onieal's, famously, the filming location of Aidan Shaw and Steve Brady’s co-owned bar, Scout's. There were balloons on the ceiling and Post-It notes in the bathroom with famous SATC quotes, for those who know them by heart.

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