We are in an interim phase at Chanel. Matthieu Blazy—who is tipped to succeed Virginie Viard this September—has had a long run up to the podium since the news broke that he would be taking the helm of the house as artistic director, and so today’s Chanel Fall 2026 Haute Couture collection was produced by the in-house atelier.
The show space was notable here, setting the tone for the intention of the house as it navigates collections without a creative director. Inside the Grand Palais, set designer Willo Perron created a salon environment, evocative of the couture rooms at Rue Cambon for Chanel’s most important clients. What lacked in specificity around a theme, the atelier made up for in savoir-faire—as expected for a house whose couture arm is so integral to the brand’s identity.
Chanel
Chanel
The delivery felt powerful regardless. There was a sense of purity throughout the collection, offering a clean slate ahead of Blazy’s debut. Pure whites, ecru, browns, olives, and blacks formed the palette which opened with a procession of tweed, as most Chanel shows usually do. This season, the hems of skirts and jackets featured fringing to give things a slightly bohemian feel. Tweed shorts featured matching belted skirts with pockets layered over the top, which were paired with over-the-knee leather walking boots to give things a boyish edge. There were hunting jackets alluding to Gabrielle Chanel’s love of the Scottish Highlands, which was evident elsewhere in the wheat ear motifs that subtly ran through the collection on buttons, on the guests seats, and in the hands of a bride, who carried a golden bunch as she descended the salon.
Chanel
Chanel
The bride this season took cues from '’80s silhouettes. A sequin mermaid tail dress with a simple neckline featured subtly padded shoulders before fanning out into a pile of frothy tulle, scattered with sequin petal motifs. Rewinding back through eveningwear, there were blouses cut from chiffon, tulle maxi-skirts layered with georgette and embellished with ostrich delicate feathers, and under-layers of white lace. Underscoring the delicacy of couture was a coolness afforded through a few looks. It was achieved through low-slung skirts, pocket belts, chunky black belts with simple hardware, and leather opera gloves.
Chanel
Chanel
We know, through the few custom Chanel looks Blazy has worked on for select celebrity appearances, that leather will remain a big focus of his. Were there essences of his future at the house imbued through this collection? September will be the answer.
Chanel
Chanel
