
Specific collections aside, Yohji Yamamoto is lauded as one of the fashion greats. His East-meets-West aesthetic expertly blends the styles of Paris and Japan—two cities held in the highest regard for their fashion sense. He toyed with the line between masculine and feminine, expertly blending the two. Yamamoto made a name for himself with his all-black, body-disguising silhouettes—sound like any New Yorkers you know? Many point to the 1998 wedding collection as the pinnacle of his career, but I find refuge in his more wearable ventures, namely spring ’03.
Though his earlier collections were more avant-garde, this particular one possessed the magic of muted artistry—intricate construction that’s not too eccentric to wear on an average day. In other words, his designs embodied that effortless cool factor we continually strive to achieve. These days, bizarre fashion is a tough sell as we find solace in muted loungewear. Yamamoto made oddity approachable in this specific assortment of garments.
If you break down the collection, you’ll find a great deal of relevancy regarding the current moment in fashion. We’re taking stock of particular items, silhouettes, and fabrications popular today—not trends so much as small sartorial movements that have endured for longer than a single season.
Shop Vintage Yohji Yamamoto:
Yohji Yamamoto Wool Coat
This coat has the perfect subtle modernity to last in your wardrobe for years. Sans lapels, it just barely challenges the notion of the typical coat silhouette, but would pair with just about anything you put with it.
Yohji Yamamoto Trousers
Comfortable and cool—what more could you ask for in a WFH pant? The modern cargo style would look fantastic with a t-shirt and feminine shoe. Did we mention there’s an elastic waist? Enough said.
Yohji Yamamoto Vest
At this point, vests have basically passed trend status and will definitely live on in your wardrobe forever. Belt this one to wear as a top on its own, or layer over a turtleneck for those still in the midst of winter.
Y’s by Yohji Yamamoto Square Neckline Sleeveless Top
The clean lines and sharp, square neckline on this black tank blur the lines of formality—you can dress it up or down so easily. Wear it out at night with a pair of denim cutoffs in the summer or with a blazer to the office.
Yohji Yamamoto Regulation Crew Neck Midi Length Dress
This black cotton number is basically like wearing a giant t-shirt—i.e., another perfect option for a day spent around the house. The contrasting lace-up detail on the back adds the perfect sprinkle of style to the simplistic silhouette.
Yohji Yamamoto Wool Leggings
For when you need to remember what your legs look like, this pair of leggings, whose wool fabrication is a slight step up from your typical legging, is polished enough to give you the perfect dose of professionalism. Channel Audrey Hepburn with a slim black turtleneck, or opt for a fuller blouse to switch up your proportions.
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